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GEO JEFF'S GREEN MACHINE

_Have question ask me please, I'm still building this page and know there is much more to put on it. 
Email is watercatwn6535nd@yahoo.com

My gas guzzler started out as a 1994 2 door manual transmission no options.
I started out with the goal of building a machine that would cripple all major oil companies. ON It's OWN!  Or at least save me a few bucks and give some serious bragging rights.

First thing I did is read up on all the lies on the internet on how to get 1 billion mile's per gallon. Next thing I did was buy all that stuff. First gas mileage check about 40 mpg!!!!!!! Big deal I got this stock. Lot's more reading and talking with people that claimed huge numbers. First thing I found is hyper mile-aging is not  so easy to do commuting. So I needed to learn how to drive correctly. I took some lessons from a guy that gets unreal mileage from stock cars and after coasting and speeding up and driving like a drunk I bumped up 15 mpg WOW!!! But that's tough to drive that way in traffic.
Next I read up on MPG mods. This is the holly grail of serious mpg on normal driving days. But to start with a super fuel economy machine you have to start with everything new, clean and sleek.

#1 thing I did was bite the big bullet and build a new engine from the ground up. After hours of reading on efficiency standards and the newest technology coming from the manufactures I decided that the most efficient  cars in the world were truly racing cars. They build a specific engine to run at a given rpm and power for there needs. The issue with your regular car is that it has to drive down the free way and also in town and be practical in both. But this is actually only a huge issue if you are trying to build lots of horse power. The basic idea that I need to build a engine that produces lots of torque or all of the torque at just above a idle is much easier and the car manufacturers are spending gobs of cash on the R&D right now.

So the first part of the mpg trick is to use a small light weight engine. When I started this all motors were on the table and conversions were okay to other fuel forms such as diesel or propane etc. After researching I found it hard to beat a cross flow 3 cylinder all aluminum engine developed after the F1 super bikes from Suzuki.  Lucky for me this is why Geo's are so sought after in the first place.

I removed the engine and had the block x-ray'd to see how far it could be over bored with out cutting into any water jackets. It was decided to keep the engines cylinder walls as thick as possible to stop any egging of the walls such as in high mileage Chevy engines from the walls being to thin and one end running hotter than the other end from the water pump only cooling from one side through to the back of a engine.


So a custom set of pistons were ordered up that were 1 mm larger in diameter and the block was CNC cut and then CNC power honed to perfection. Worth every penny they say? Expensive but I need it perfect not just a normal rebuild here. The crank shaft was sent off by the machine shop to a crank shop. They cut it .020 of a inch and then micro polished it. Why stop there when your throwing money out the window that BP could be using to save the gulf of Mexico. Then the bearings are ordered and then cut to match the crank and then micro polished. Expensive but I have to say geezeus it was amazing to look at and when it was installed you could almost blow on the crank and it would spin. Who even came up with this was genius. I can now see how a F1 car can turn over 14k rpm.

The oil pump in a metro for what ever it is worth is a work of art coming from a bike builder company. It was decided to just have the parts micro lined with a coating to make them virtually friction less. also the crank and bearings have this done to them. Rods in a race motor like this would usually be tossed in the garbage and $1,000.00k dollars after we would have titanium. But first off were building a formula one engine that will produce all its torque around 2100 rpm's or so. Not even I could go titanium here so the stock rods were lightened and shot peened.

The custom pistons came in so perfect the engine balancer said you could not tell a difference between any of the three and then asked where the other 5 pistons were. Every one is a comedian when it comes to this motor during research and the build.


The Balancer not ever having balanced a 3 cylinder 4 stroke motor actually had to talk with some other balance shop guru's to figure out how to do it. My eye's rolled back in my head when I heard this and was about to go some where else. But I did some research and with a 3 cylinder engine they always vibrate or shake? It turns out that the easiest engine to balance is a straight 6 cylinder. HMM ever heard of a six cylinder Chevy or Ford loosing a crank bearing. Well it turns out they almost don't and some say that ford quit using them with Chevy because they lasted to long ( dodge too). I don't know if its true but it sounds like a big three business model.

On the flip side a 3 cyl 2 stroke is about the same to balance out as a straight 6 cylinder because of how the ignition fires the spark plugs. Must be the reason all the ATV stuff now is all 3cyl 2 strokes? But the Geo is 4 stroke and fires at every 120 degrees.

So it turns out you balance a 3cyl 4 stroke Geo for either high rpm or low rpm? you pick it they can calculate where to put the weight for the rpm range. Must be a industrial type of thing for a engine that  runs an equipment of some type? So of course that was easy to pick since I knew i was looking for a low rpm engine. They balanced it out to nuts on perfect!!!!!!!!!!!!! shazam!

The fly wheel it turns out is heavy for a 3 cylinder, LOL smallest thing I ever saw but for a 3 cylinder it had to be lightened. I did some research and found that it has to be custom built. But I read a blog that said a 4 cyl Suzuki fly wheel is 4lbs lighter to start with and has a bigger clutch Assembly for all that raw horse power. I located one for only $100 funny how its always $100 at the wrecking yard when you say I'm looking for this part but I need it for this car. Any how works perfect they did some magic to it.  I bought a new Sachs clutch assembly and it was all balanced with the crank rods pistons etc.

While the bottom end was being done I had the head loved long time. First those terrible steel guides were pushed out and some PEP racing bronze guides were slipped in, oh yeah after they custom made them because for some reason no one has ever needed that size? Then PEP sent up a set of racing stainless valves. Oh yeah they made those too! The head is a cross flow which is considered the best design for a head as far as flow. The casting was cleaned up and since it is not a high rpm engine clean is what we were looking for but nothing opened up (no head porting needed). The head was ground with a racing 3 way 45 degree cut with fly cutters not stones so it is a perfect machined surface between the head/seat and the valve.

The stock cam was retained as it is a good base to start with and truly works. Down the road will test some other profiles and verify a difference on the dyno. The cam was polished and micro lined to reduce friction. also the cam towers and caps were micro lined.

When the engine was assembled the stock rings were tossed that came with the pistons and a set of almost $300.00 TOTAL seal rings were installed. GEEZUS that's almost as much as a set for a v-8 but it appears they are custom built as know one in there right mind has ever ordered these for a Geo.  Imagine that!

Also the head was decked on all sides with a fly cutter which made it look like mirror surfaces, okay even I was amazed here it was incredible. The ideal compression to start with was deemed by the experts and prayer to be removing enough material to raise the compression ratio to just over 11 to 1. Now after driving i see it can go more on pump gas. Next time i pull the head off I'll have it re cut for 12 to 1. Plus the head had the SINIGN cuts in the quench plate or deck in the head. Honestly this is cutting technology and we had no idea since no one we knew had done this. Lots of stuff on line and a few Geo guys talking about they had done just this and had very good ping or detonation control with it. Since the plan was to run it at 25 mph in town in 5th gear pinging was huge on our list.

Its not all about dumping the price of new car just into the engine. There is plenty of more places to tuck and shove $100 bills.

I bought a set of tires that had a stiffer side wall to lower rolling drag on the surface of the earth. The trans axle fluid is normally thick 90 wt oil. So it was dumped and ATF synthetic fluid was installed a bottle prolong additive to make the super thin light fluid do the work of the high pressure 90 wt oil. amazing stuff you can run your engine with out oil in it. The axles were taken apart and some super expensive synthetic grease that must be used in space or to create life itself was slapped in the CV's. Might be super low friction stuff but my God you don't want to loose a drop for the price. They say the axle will never wear out now? Will see in a couple million miles I have my doubts.

The tires are installed with balancing beads dumped in the tire instead of lead weights clamped on. The beads centrifugally spin out and completely balance the tire at all speeds instead of the speed of just the tire machine that you would normally balance a tire at. Okay first time I did this and it's amazing I'm sold the car is so dam smooth. Tire's are inflated to the max and then a smidgen more on the front. 45 to 50 psi

I'll update some more soon and get some pictures. Currently driving like everyone else and Ricky racing around town my last tank was 56.6 mpg . I do know a guy that hyper miles a stock Geo to 89 mpg and tells me he can get over 100 mpg in my car with driving technique. Will see I'm betting him a tank of gas.


FYI the gas mileage is great but the cars engine and drive train truly may never wear out. not many people can say this. We already know at about 150k miles a Suzuki needs a top end on the engine usually. This one has stainless and bronze parts now that we know they will go 750k miles in Honda and Toyota, but it will need these vi-ton valve seals changed at some point maybe 350k miles or maybe just every 25 years for sure because it is nothing to work on a 20 plus year old Geo and it still has stock seals and working just fine/sorta! These new seals are suppose to be so much better 50 years? put new seals in if it smokes at start up or leaks of course but no actual lubricated parts. 

I have never seen a bottom end worn out and we know the rally race guys run them completely stock with 20 psi of turbo boost. Yes they burn valves etc but never damage cranks or bearings unless a valve drops through a piston. I not only get better fuel mpg than any hybrid that will ever be built but my car may actually never wear a lubricated part out. Just think about that and how much money a guy can save over a few decades commuting to work. Imagine a car that lasts a life time. I expect soon I'll be kidnapped and killed buy the oil company's to stop this information from getting out. Probably be thrown in a ditch with that guy that made the 100 mpg carburetor for a 1965 Cadillac. Seriously I would have killed him to, what a liar.




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