Alrighty its been a long while I have so many projects and only one of me. I have some new ideas and a new system to set up. I'm starting out with a big beater I just bought today. Its a mid 80"s benz turbo diesel. Its a driver but 300k on her and she lets you know.
I wanted a new system test on a big won out monster to see what a guy can get away with. I get so many emails and its tough to answer questions becuase if your car or truck is new or old it changes the design. So i figure i'll build the big beast system for a old machine and it will only work better on a newer engine. i'll blog it at the very bottom of the other info below. if your new read through its long and there are pictures but it will help you get a idea of what i'm up to.
ONCE YOU GO BLACK YOU NEVER GO BACK!
"BLACK DIESEL"
If your new to WMO check out this link to see how clean and safe it is when burnt correctly. Its like a ray of sunshine or a glass of cool mountain stream water. C'mon it's at least as clean as any DYNO fuel and easy to convert to.
You take the tax evasion out of it and it's almost no fun.
No matter they'll still never take me alive!
House Bill 3188 has now exempted from Road Use Tax in Washington State.
This applies to WVO used for personal use and for biodiesel made from WVO for personal use only NOT for commercial use. The law goes into effect on July 8, 2008. The Governor signed the bill today March 28 2008.
To those that helped push this thorugh thank you were just one step closer to sanity when it comes to alternative fuels.
BIO-FUELS / WAISTE FUELS
NO WAR NEEDED!
HYDROGEN IS FOR MAKING PURE BONG WATER, YOU HIPPY.
PLEASE ONLY SEND ME EMAILS ON POSSIBLE OPTIONS.
I think it's important to realize that the earth will begin to run out of oil in about 20 years for the average persons income. In about 50 years oil will be un available to even the rich.
Thats almost enough time to build Nuclear power plants and have them all on line to go with hydrogen or electric, but thats only if the building sites were authorized today and building started tomorrrow.
I believe if you invest in your fuel source making ability now it will pay off with the learned know how and lower cost fuels in such a way it will be compare able to your retirement for the everage person or family. There will be no doubt that fuel will be the most costly thing for a family in the near future.
I have chosen to start out with a 1985 ford f 350 6.9 liter diesel non turbo. I have spent the better part of a few months looking for this model.
BIG BLUE
I am looking for best fuel economy and lots of room for the guys and something that will haul my trailers. 4x4 was not anything that interested me and would just hurt my fuel economy a bit as well as give me another part of the truck to rebuild.
This truck was found on www.AutoTrader.com in Albany, Oregon. It had 118k original miles. I confirmed the mileage through repair records. It was used for hualing a camper and horse trailer to horse shows and then traded in ata honda dealer which sold it to a used car lot at which point i found it. The maintence was in excellent condition and the truck just recieved a complete service including u joints raditaor water pump and fluids. All in all it was a excellent candidate for a conversion to alternative fuels.
I pulled this info off www.myfastfuel.com. My goal is to see every hovercraft owner pulling with a converted pick up and maybe a converted hovercraft itself. Be it veggie oil or motor oils there is no reason you can not pay yourself to drive around instead of being raped by the cost of fuel at the pumps.
Great blog on converting over. I would like to say so far I have not found a desiel that would not run on 100% lube or waiste oil. the precentages I believe are different people suing waiste oil in different climates. for instances I can not use waiste oil with block heaters below 65f at at 60 f its almost impossible to start the truck. with a block heater you don't even need the glow plugs? So take everything with a grain of salt go slow pay attention and you'll see this si much easier and better for your diesel engine in the long run over VO or diesel pump fuel.
2006 Dodge 2500 crew cab 2wd: runs a 50/50 mix, gets 30 mpg's
1998 Dodge 2500 ext cab 2wd: runs 70/30 mix, gets 25 mpg's
1997 Ford 250 ext cab 2wd: runs an 80/20 mix, gets 21 mpg's
1995 Ford 350 reg cab 2wd: runs a 80/20 mix winter, 90/10 summer, 22 mpg's
1992 Dodge 250 ext cab 2wd: runs a 95/5 mix year round, 26 mpg's
1987 Mercedes 300 TD: runs a 80/20 mix, 35 mpg's
1985 Mercedes 300 TD: runs a 80/20 mix, 39 mpg's
1980 Mercedes 240 D: runs a 80/20 mix, 41 mpg's
Misc. farm tractors, John Deere, Massey, Kubota, Case: run 80/20 mixtures year round
(First number stands for waste oil, second number stands for added diesel fuel. EX. 80/20 mix is 80%
waste oil, 20% diesel fuel. The above vehicles use mostly motor oil, transmission fluid, and hydraulic oil.
Some vegetable oil is used as well.)
Crude oil, and any other petroleum based fluid into a clean fuel product that is compatible with any engine or heating
system that operates on diesel fuel. No chemicals needed and no engine modifications, just blend your used oil with
some diesel fuel and run it through the unit. We recommend starting at a 90/10 mixture, 10% used oil and 90% diesel
fuel, and working your way down. Your vehicle will let you know when you have reached the fuel-oil ratio that is best.
Most vehicles can run a 50/50 mixture or lower but it depends on the vehicle. We do recommend that you stop at an
80/20 mixture on most passenger vehicles, 80% used oil and 20% diesel. This is just a rule, we do have a 1992 Dodge
250 that will run on a 95/5 mixture of used motor oil and diesel fuel, with no smoke coming out of the tailpipe at all.
In the US, currently, we have over 100 million passenger vehicles, each one carrying a minimum of 1 gallon of oil in the
crankcase alone, that's quite a bit of oil being drained every 3000 miles. This does not take into account the billions of
gallons of crankcase oils, transmission fluids, gear oils, and hydraulics fluids that are drained from farm machinery,
heavy equipment, school buses, road tractors, salvaged
cars, etc. This all means that there is absolutely no limit to the amount of oil you can find and with one of our units all
these fluids can be turned into a clean fuel product. You can, of course, combine all of these oils together to make a
hybrid fuel.
-no preheating
-no tiltrating
-no washing
-no chances of a corrosive fuel damaging expensive engine components, which is typical when using the
alcohol/alkaline method. The fuel produced in our units comes out with a neutral PH
-no glycerin to dispose of
-no measuring
-no dangerous mixture of explosive chemicals
A good thing about running petroleum based oils is that they contain 25,000-30,000 more btu's per gallon. This can add up to more HP and better fuel economy
running used petro based oils in their diesels. The gentlemen who has an increase of 10 MPG's runs a 75/25 mix, 75%
used motor oil and 25% diesel fuel, in a Mercedes 300 TD. When running veggie oil you will typically lose HP and fuel
mileage, also veggie oil tends to gel fairly easily in cold weather. Petro based oils do not, however, and once you get to
your lowest mixture you can normally stay there year round.
A few more great things about running waste oils through your diesel:
-More lubrication for your motor, injection pump, etc, the 15ppm junk that they sell at the pump isn't helping anything.
We have the poorest quality diesel fuel available in the world. Over 80% of our fuel here in the US has been found to be
well under the lubrication standards that most engine manufacturers recommend. Most major engine manufacturers
know and tests show that adding oil to your diesel fuel significantly extends the life of your pumps, injectors, cylinder
walls, and other parts of the motor. The diesel engine was designed to run on oil. Due to the poor quality of fuel we
have here, the average rebuild on our passenger cars and trucks is 250,000 miles, compare that to the same vehicles
in Europe that average 800,000 - 1,000,000 miles before a rebuild is necessary just because they have better fuel and
more lubrication, they also use more waste oils in their fuel than we do. An interesting note: Norway buys all of the fat
from our hospitals that is taken out during surgery and makes fuel out of it. We are the most obese country in the world
so no fuel shortage for them any time soon.
-Running used petro based oils has no more of an adverse effect on our air than running regular diesel fuel. Check out
the Farm Show magazine on an article about a few farmers around the US and Canada that use their tractor's exhaust
to fertilize their crops, guess what, it's a better fertilizer and they have better growth than with any commercially available
fertilizer on the market today. They first cool the exhaust and then pump it directly into the ground while their planting
their seed. Just something to remember next time somebody screams that we diesel drivers are polluting everything with
our smoky beasts.
-Burning the oil through your engine is a great way to dispose of waste oils. A gallon burned is a gallon that doesn't get
spilled or poured into the ground.
My engine oil conversion blog starts here!
JUNE 25th 2007
Added 5 gallons of used motor oil to about 12 gallons of diesel and drove for about 40 miles with no effects other than normal. Will drive the same distance in the AM on the mixture as well. Starting the vehicle on the all diesel tank and running it for about five miles on the diesel tank before shuttting off. The thought behind this is that there will be no mixed fuel to make the engine hard to start. In the future I'll play with starting the engine on mixed oil but the goal now is to see if we can get to 100% recycled oil. At this point I'm just dumping the used oil in the tank from a gas can. i have a 50 gallon tank with a hand crank pump that will go in the bed of the truck to hold waist oil. i need to geta meter for it so that i can keep track of the percentage if it turns out i need to run less than 100% used oil.
JUNE 26th 2007
Added about ten gallons of used motor oil to the tank. Then topped the tank off with about 5 gallons of diesel fuel. The tank is suppose to be 19 gallons. The fuel that was in it I had guessed to be mixed at 30% from the day before. The truck ran great for the forty mile trip home tonight. I also turned the rotors and installed some heavy duty brake pads on the front with a wheel bearing repack. Tomorrow will start just topping the tank off with oil everyday untill it starts to run bad or were running at 100% recycled motor oil waist.
June 27th 2007
burning 5 gallons or close to that both ways to work. I added 5 gallons waist oil tonight and brought it to full tank. I believe this brings me to practicaly %100 percent motor oil with no problems what so ever. infact it seems to have a little more power. Since i'm to cheap to run a test on diesel to check the fuel economy will just have to take my word that it has more power as that should show better gas mileage as well. Still starting and shutting off on diesel but its looking like it will start on waist oil as well.
June 28th 2007
Running on motor oil still no problems what so ever. Shot a little video of the truck going down the road. Getting some ideas together on fuel tank size and what options to add to the fuel system. Go to my yahoo videos and watch the video of us driving the truck tonight on the way home. http://video.yahoo.com/video/play?vid=725994
June 29th 2007
The truck is operating perfectly. At this point we are adding waist oil only to the waist tank. I have been making a effort to always start it or shut it down on diesel. Yesterday I forgot to switch over and this morning It started right up on waist oil. It was'nt the quickest start but then I think I have some bad glow plugs. I have no doubt now that in the winter I will be able to block heat it and fire it off on waist oil if i want.
July 3 2007
The truck is still running great. I find it is easier to start still by switching back to diesel for cold starts but the warm start you would not know the difference. Infact it may be better? I aquired a gear driven pump of consederable size that was used on dump truck to run a snow blow and sand spreader. My plan now is to figure out how much power it takes to run the pump so i can figure out a gear size and add a A/C clutch to it with a switch to turn it on and off. looks like 1" inlet and outlet so maybe with some reducers i can get some good suction at say 50 ft. I also got a nice dual stage oil filter bracket that will hold a couple ford style oil filters at one time helping to keep up the volume of flow.
July 9th 2007
I had a chance to run several more gallons of fuel through the truck in waist oil. I could feel the truck having a loss of power about 100 miles back and new it was time a for a filter change. I might add the oil I have been using has not been flitered and simply collected from the waist tanks at oil change places. Just pouring it in 5 gallon buckets and right to the truck. Its not the oil coming out of the cars that is not filtered but the debri that comes off the bottom of the sump drains. If I could get it right out of the car it would have been just filtered by the car filter and be perfect. I'm collecting parts for a very seriuos hydraulic pump set up that will be better than most comercial units I see being used by oil companies. I still need an electric clutch for my pump and I think I have a source for a fuel tank. The truck did quit on the way home. I did a fliter change but being eager to get home a few blocks away I cranked it way to long to get it to fire up one last time and ran the battery low. Lucky I just put a tow bar on my GEO Metro so I was able to walk home get the geo and a buddy and hook the tow bar to the back of the truck and use the geo to push it across town. I have no doubt I could have pushed it down the free way it worked well. He steered and braked and I work the power from the geo. I may just start towing the geo until I get this dialed in as it wont change the fuel mileage.
JUNE 22nd 2007
Ran into a issue of somthing plugging up the pick in the fuel tank. i need to hook up a vacuum pump to the pick up and see if i can suck it through the line and get it out of there. I also need to get that tank out and get it modified for heat and drains for this winter. I got three of the four drums I need for my new fuel tank. The drums have the removable tobs with seals and a extra two inch bung at the bottom that will come in handy. I have to get my hovercraft flying so I'm going to be a few weeks before I can get seruios about this conversion but I am getting parts gathered. It looks to be a spagetti factory of hoses to do all that I want it too. having a cetrifuge is going to make it much easier to know that fuel is truly being cleaned well. I have now talked with our local diesel injector and pump rebuilders and they tell me there are no screens in the injectors or pump and the only filtering is done by the spin on filters. I ran into a filter plugging issue as the oil i am taking out of cars is filtered to 20 microns and the fuel filters are 2 microns. So I am going to switch to the fuel filters being 20 microns (oil filter) and this should make my filters last much longer untill I have my centrifuge installed. I'll start posting pixs very soon of what i have and what i'm doing.
october 11th 2007
Finally getting back to this project. Pulled the forward fuel tank out and found it full of cramp that I had dumped in it from my poor filtering system. Gave it to the radiator shop had it boiled and pressure washed.
October 12th 2007
Got the tank back nice and clean. This cokming week i will install the heating, filling, vents, mixing or blending fittings. AAA radiator added a large drain hole for a ball cock drain valve and a great way to get the water out from pressure washing with the remaining bits of debris.
October 13th 2007
Used the truck today to haul the hovercraft. The first tank is still removed. Every thing went fine untill I stopped for some fuel and put in a full tank of Unleaded super instead of good old diesel. Got about ten miles out in the middle of no where and lost power. Siphoned the fuel out of the truck for my car and had my brother bring me ten gallons of diesel fuel. The truck was very hard to start ran the battery down and jump charged it. The truck has 3 or 4 bad glow plugs that I have not changed yet and combined with gas in the system it was a pain to start. Finally poured diesel down the intake and got it to fire off and ran the gas out of the fuel injector lines. Ran great went right to the diesel station and topped off.
October 15 2007
Started work on the tank conversion. This is about $62.32 of parts so far.
Larry from AA radiator showed me a fast slick way to put holes in the tank with out getting metal shavings in it. Just use a small punch and then a larger punch to knock holes to the correct size. Its fast and easy and no debri in the tank to clean out.
This is the tank upside down and the copper coolant lines are virtually on the bottom of the tank taking advantage of the rising of the heat off the tank bottom. I believe I am only looking to keep the oil luke warm. in the tow truck I'm not heating it all except a block heater in the lower radiator hose for the first start up of the day. With this set up I will not be using the block heater unless it was warranted for the stock diesel set up. After the truck fires off on deisel fuel I switch to lube oil asap. If I was to run into a very cold climate I can watch the tank temp gauge and switch over when the lube fuel is warm enough. Also i have installed a control valve on the inlet of the coolant line into the lube fuel tank. using the flow to control heat may come into play? I read some where that at 90F the oil flows like diesel fuel as far a s viscosity goes but the fuel valves and lines dont like the warmer temps. Will just have to see.
October 16th 2007
Fitted the tank back up in the truck making sure that all the new fittings cleared the frame and brackets.
My helper Cruiser.
October 17th 2007
Got the tank fittings all soldered in place today. I want to give a big shout out to Larry at AAA Radiator in smokey point for doing such a great job on the fittings. Steve and I spent several hours installing my new dual oil filter bracket and a faucet in line 7 to 10 lb fuel pump. The pump is an assist unit for the main pump on the engine. I just wanted to make sure the thicker oil makes it to the injector pump with out volume issues. I just happen to find at work today a the factory ford fuel line repair kit. I cut the line just after the 6 way fuel tank switch valve on the engine side. I then installed a 5/16" factory barb in the ford plastic line and then switched to heavy duty transmission cooler line for my fuel line ( Good Year ). Then into a fuacet fuel pump then to the dual oil filter bracket and then out to the factory fuel line which is stell at this point and 5/16". the install is very clean and I stole the power for the electric pump from the diesel injector pump circuit so its only running with the key on. I need to pull a return line and see if when the truck is off the electric pump is still cycling the fuel back through the return line. If this is the case it will make for a great and easy way to prime the system during a filter change.
Tossed the tank on the hoist arm with a coat hangar to hold it. Just brushed on a some Rustoleum machine gray. Its been fairly humid and cold so I'm guessing this wont be really hard and dry until tuesday (its friday at 6pm right now in this picture). Monday i plan to run the water line and insulate it.
So since I dont live in a real cold part of the country and hgave been running a isuzu turbo with only one tank and no modifcations I felt ten feet of 1/2" copper tube with be plenty of surface area. i got the tube as close to the bottom as i could while keeping it straight just to make the install fast. I truly only have a few hours in all of this so far so its very quick to do. In this picture I have the hot coolant going into the the control valve which i was hoping to have some temp control of the intrenal tank with the valve and the other 5/8 nipple being open as its the return line.
In this picture your obvisouly lookong at the stock ford sender. The two fittings to the right are both new return lines I have installed. The one on the left is the return back to the tank for the faucet fuel pump that i use to blend or mix this tank up if I was to add two different types of fuels. The fitting to the right is a filler port for this tank and is the feed port that goes to the tank in the bed of the truck ( not installed yet). So I have two stock tanks one is diesel all the time and non modified except I am pulling it and cleaning and painting it as well as adding a better venting system than ford did so I can fill it faster at the pump with out all the burbing back. Then these pictures are the modified tank. My third and last tank is a ten inch deep bed tank that covers the entire floor of the trucks bed. It will be 200 gallons with baffles filler necks vents completly heated and transfor ports to the lube oil tank. I plan on installing a CF on this tank which i dont need! I will run this off a power steering pump mounted to the truck enigne. The CF will be used all the time while driving and make it so that I can come down to super clean fuel that will not plug a standard diesel fuel filter. With this I can transfer fuel right to a diesel truck that is not set up for waist lube oil at all and have no issues as long as the out side temp is warm enough for the cold start which should be about half the year around here. I though it could be a cool thing to top off off a buddies tank or to let a guy experience free fuel and how it works in his truck so he can see its worth the conversion.
This port is to the left of the stock sending unit and is the pick up tube (goes to the tanks bottom) for the facet fuel pump that I will use for blending two fuel types together in this tank.
October 22 2007
I was going to install my tank tonight and found I lost the oring for the fuel sender. oh well! i placed a order to the loacal ford dealership and started to install the heater hose on the truck. The hose install went well and looks very clean. tomorrow i will put the pipe wrap on the heater hose to help retain some of those BTU's. Remeber I dont need those real hot temps like a VO or SVO system I just need a little heat to help evaporate any moisture in the tank and help the flow out in cold weather.
This is a shot of the vent I installed on my tank. ford does not put a vent in the tank so i am hoping this will make a huge help when filling.
This is the drain I installed on the bottom of the tank with the drain hose installed. On the other end is a 1/2' control valve. I have had to drain a oil tank or two and it can take a while so a big hole helps. The lenght of the hose allows it to be hung under the truck out of the way but then pulled out where its easy to take a sample or drain the tank for any reason. its also up close to the trucks bottom and i hope it waont be able to be caught on any thing that would tear it out.
Another shot of the drain hose
Control valve on drain hose. also just for a safety pre caution the control valve will have a plug as well installed in it.
October 23rd 2007
Long night I just got home from working on this its just after midnight. This is the pump that is used for mixing the tank or blending. its hooked in to the key so its on when the truck is running.
Same pump just another angle showing where it sucks the oil out of the tank at. I have a pick up tube to the tank bottom at this fitting ll in soldered copper 1/2" tube.
Top of the sender installed in the tank with the tank up in place. everything is stock here.
This is the return line for the blending pump and the plugged port is where my bed tank will fill this tank.
This is the drain for the tank its on a 36" hose that swivels in the bottom of the tank. it is a flucsh fitting the very bottom of the tank and should allow for complete removal of fluid.
Another shot of my blending pump.
The end of the drain or sample hose is attached under the bed were you can reach right down and grab it off its hook and drain a sample off the tank with little to know effort.
Another angle of the drain
This is the hook I made to hold the drain while driving.
Steve is holding the drain hose while its on the lift. you can see how it comes out from under the truck so that you can drain samples into a bucket with out spilling.
Stvev is showing how it hooks to the frame for traveling in theses pictures.
This is my booster pump its in front of the switching valve so it boosts both tanks volume. A nascar style dual oil filter mount. I have it plumbed so both filters are actling as one large filter
Just another peak
A shot of the heated water lines coming in and out as well as the drain hose.
Heater hose runing to the waiste oil tank.
As you can see i slpit some heater hose and siliconed the pieces to the sharp corners i had to travel around to get back to the engine compartment.
I pumped in some 10 gallons or so of used motor oil tonight and drove home about 35 miles. dropped off steve at his place and stopped at Burger king for dinner. Everything is working perfect. stopped twice and climbed under the truck to look for leaks and to feel that nak and lines to get a idea of how it was running for waist oil temp. The coolant lines are to hot to touch so I know they are around 180F. the tank was very warm to the touch but not hot. In the next day or two my new guages will be here for pressure and temp and will find out whats really happing as well as install my new monster transmission cooler and some more cool tricks i have planned for the truck before it gets over hauled and painted. Looks like after spending a few hundred on this project i just got paid back a few bucks driving home and it feels good!
October 25th 2007
Drove the truck to work today with a mix of dielse and waiste oil ran great no issues. I'm hearing the blending pump rattle the way those pumps do and I'm not sure i like hearing it at all. I am going to remount it with some shock mounting. Also I see no reason to run it all the time. I am going to install it on a timer? Not sure where to geta timer yet but i did see a bathroom fan or light timer that could be mounted in my dash with just the turn dial coming through. I may be able to make this look very clean and I like having it only run for a few minutes when i need it. I'm thinking I actually need it when i'm not driving on that tank and i have just added another fuel topp off and want to combine it all well or blend it. I ordered a couple new batteries from interstate battery today and will put them in and install new glow plugs tomorrow and may run a compression check with the plugs out.
October 26th 2007
Getting ready to start on the waist oil suction pump for collection of the waist oil. Here are some pictures of a pump I am trying to figure out what size electric motor to run this thing on.
october 31st 2007
Installed a fresh set of glow plugs. I was just going to change a couple bad ones but I had a whole set so what the hell. i kept the good ones for spares. i installed a new return line kit with the fittings and hose with new clamps. Got it at napa for 61$. I'm still struggling with what to do for a suction pump for my collection system. The pump in the above picture is what I'm leaning towards again witha A/C 1/2 to 1 hp motor ran by extension cord or invertor? I really want a 12 volt pump but there so expensive and I'm not sure which to get and what rpm the final unit will run at so the motor is not being damaged? At least A/C pumps are cheap? I may get it working on a/c then try and find a 12 volt or 24 volt motor that will do the same load and rpm. My biggest issue is I dont know what this pump will take for a load to run it. One thing I'm sure of is that it will move some volume. i was a key stroke from ordering a red line pump but the 12 volt is just two small and the 110 unit would need a invertor installed as well. Well the truck is firing up on some cold morings witha touch of frost on the window with not being switched over and I'm not switching over the tanks at work either. I really want to see it not start so i know where the line in the sand is. The glow plugs did wonders and this motor must be high mileage? but it looks like i will be good for the winter. I have the oil collection system to get built here then the next blog will be the boat diesel conversion. My 37 ft boat is chevy gas powered and I have bought a AUDUi turbo diesel 1.6 liter to replace it and a waist oil conversion. were install keel cooler and a dry stack exhaust to be the friendlyiest to the enviroment as we possible can be, no more exhuast in the water! I also have my eye on a motor home thats already a diesel. so much to do and so little time to do it in.
I bought the plan to build the super sucker from murphy's machines. Its a great plan set and easy to build. But I'm not sure it works for my application yet. I really need to be able to pick up 200 to 300 gallons at a time to make it worth my travel time. The issue with a super sucker is that I need a pressure tank or in this case a vacuum tank that big and really a 250 gallon propane tank is the best answer. the 250 gallon propane tank is just to big to be in the bed of my truck and looks kinda out of place. so I think that i will build the super sucker on a small boat trailer i have that has a 3500lb axle with disc brakes that i built a few years back. Just for a margin of safety i will switch the small boat trailer tires to a couple e rated tires or build a dual tire set up for it so i can have four wheels and tires on one axle. This will just depend on how it tows and feels when the tank is full and traveling down the highway. But for right now I am going to mount the truck with a hydraulic pump ran from either a 12 volt motor or 110 volt motor. If i can find a good deal on a leeson 3 hp 12 dc motor for continuois duty that would work best i just missed one on ebay for $226. With a pump on board and not a vacuum system i can build a fuel tank that is below the top of the trucks bed and keep it all looking fairly stock. I think i am going with a 4 ft x 8 ft tank with baffles and heating. The metal is easy to get in precut lenghts and then just a few miles of welding. Fuly loaded i should be able to go several thousand miles on a tank of waist oil if i needed to.
November 23 2007
Well I ahd a laek on the inlet copper tube going into the tank. The solder had a crack? It was a thin area around the hole in the tank as far as solder thickness goes. So i pulled it and cut some copper sheet metal into half moons and filled the gaps around the copper tube to the steel tank. This allowed the slder to be filled deep in the area with out falling through into the tank. this is now very strong and solid. I am having a issue that is increasing with the temp outside falling. The oil in the tank is to thick cold and i am not getting full power for at least ten miles I'm guesing and at 5 miles I am able to lock the cruise on say 50 mph or 55mph. since i have no trailer load on i have no idea if i am getting absoloutly the full fuel flow? but i'm guessing not for quite a while where the tank feels warm on the outside. So i need to ree route the fuel lines and replace them with the power steering hose i like a nd wrap them around the heater hose to and from the tank then insulate the hoses with pipe foam wrap. I'm sure this will fix the issue just need to find time to do it. also i got the fittings made for the ofrd tempo air condtioning condensor i pulled a while back form a wrecked car. had to get NAPA to find me some ends that plug on to the stock A/C lines then come off that with 3/8 fittings to clamp my transmission lines to. then i can just undo the clips and remove the lines for flushing or removal of the cooler for working on the truck. the cooler is the same size as a ford tempo radaitor so it huge compared to a cooler you would buy in the store. I also bought a oil filter adapter to put in line with the transmission lines to filter the fluid. this takes the same filter as a ford gas truck ph8. its also the same filter I'm using on the oil conversion to fileter my waist oil so i only need to carry one filter for every thing and its the most common filter in the world. I bought a host of cyber dyne guages to look at a host of things on the truck which need to be mounted as well. be nice to have the ford truck ferry stop by and get this shit done i never have enough time. Also for thise of you emailing me i am still just starting the truck on starting fluid in the cold start condiation and not running the diesel at all. Its working great and only take a second to shoot a shot in and saves me 3 or 4 dollars every start up so its worth it. also picked up at palletized chemical tank for oil storage or a huge tank in the back of the truck. got it on craigs list for75$. if i get more they say they stack 4 high. great way to gravity feed and seperate oil. Tomorrow i go to randys simple centrifuge factory in morton washington. he has a diesel dasher vw i am buying and getting the nickle tour. may be adding a cetrifuge to the mix for my dads truck where he wants to blend fuels and not do a conversion.
november 24 2007
Took a trip down to morton washington today and checked simple centrifuge and bought a VW dasher from randy. the truck worked perfect ran about 30 gallons of oil through it no issues on the running but did end up with a exhaust manifold gasket leak pulling a hill hard must have burnt up the old gasket. It stime to get this dasher up and running on wmo and rebuild this truck motor and get the twin turbo set up on it that i have designed. Be nice to double the power. I am getting 10 miles to the gallon or real close. towed the dasher with no fuel useage change at all so that was i bonus.
November 28th 2007
I've been running the truck on straight oil still and no issues just starting it with a squirt of starting spray. the VW dasher project is starting to turn into athe long project. I'm installing all new seals on the engine water pump timing belt thermostat belts and hoses and of course a oil conversion. I'm installing my kevlar ralley tyres on it with a push bar in front with a winch and some KC lights i have. on the rear a custom hitch for towing the oil trailer. Then off to paint! I'm hoping for a complete finished project in two to three months at the most if not sooner. be a daily driver next week and start working more opf the bugs out and get the struts and shocks changed. looks like the tranny may be bad so i locatde another used one for 100$ or rebuild it for 350 or so. My biggest issue is if i should just slap on aturbo on now and make it a eco turbo or go with the turbo motor i have and have a full turbo set up? I have a idea in my head to add fuel under boost for a eco turbo that could really put out some power but i need to find out if it has squirters for the pistons to control piston temps. looking like about 2350 miles per tank with the trailer? i'm basing it on 35 mpg since i figure it should loose some mpg with the extra weight of the trailer.
december 4th 2007
This weekend got Arlins help installing the new guages. The caris running very nicely just sipping fuel! only a week away from the oil conversion! here are some pixs
Thhis a picture of the injector pump. you can barely see in this poor quality photo that on the return banjo on the pump i took it off and drilled it out then tapped it to 1/8" npt and installed a temp sender inside the injector pump on the return side. this were the excess fuel is dumped into the injetor pump for lubing the pump itself. this is the fuel area i want to measure the most. the fuel temp on it way back from going through the injector rail.
Installed a fuel pressure guage on the fuel fileter housing. this is temparary as the actaul system will have this mounted to the injector pump and the car will have one filter per tank.
just another shot of the same sender for pressure.
Here is the drilled and taped hole.
This on a of the guage pods with the cyberdyne guages installed. arlion did a great install on the gauge pods building a harness for the pod itself so that it can be removed for service from the dash of the car.
Ready to plug into the cars wiring harness.
Its a bit blury but what i did was drill and tap the water pump housing and install a temp sender right directly behind the water pump impeller and directly next to the thermostat. This gives a much more precise engine temp than the stock sender that reads from the other side of the motor.
december 10 2007
Been busy waiting for parts from the big Ebay! dam some of this guys are slow shipping. I had planned on the tank pull tonight but past on the idea until i have every part in hand. this weekend was the first time i let someone borrow the WMO truck. A friend was moving and short on cash and a truck so saved her at least $100 on fuel. she had no issues at all with the truck except forgot to switch over to diesel when she shut it off in freeziong snowy weather. i maen for the night when she was done with it so it was a bit hard to start took a couple shots of starting fluid instaed of one!!!!!!! sweetness. i just got done making a $500 dollar order at northern tool for a electric clutched hydruailic pump that is capable of 30 gallons a minute at 3000 psi. since i will not be running it under pressure i'm not sure what that equates to but i'm hoping in the long run it kicks the shit out of most of the veggie oil guys home made stuff. i'm putting one on both the car and truck just not sure which to put the pump on first? i think the VW dasher should be made a complete system first as i plan to make this my daily driver. I now have all the parts for the most part for the dashers 55 gallon tanker trailer and will being putting that together while I do the conversion on the car. I'm very excited to have gotten this far with so little issues. I cant wait to start tweaking the compression ratio's to see what i can get out of this wmo. Who would ever thought a old dasher would be a restore project. i have taken nicer cars to th wrecking yard. I cant wait to get some paint on this project so it at least looks decent. I have checked fuel mileage twice now and get a solid 45 mpg. As you have read i had based my calculations at 35 mpg so as long as it is loaded up and still at 35 or better i'll be on target for the fuel range i want. Any one out there with a VW gas tank that fits inthe vw spare tire hole and wants to sell it let me know i'm still searching for a second onboard tank. A couple changes i'm making and not sure if i posted them already as i do not spell check or re read my posts. The VW is getting two electric fuel pumps one for each pump there just athe standard cheapo eletric carb pumps you get for $30 at the local parts store. with this set up i am hoping to see the difference in fuel pressure from diesel to wmo with the new tank switching right up at the injector pump itslef. instaed of the dual nascar style oil filter unit i am going with single ph8a filter brackets for each tank. my theory here is i have had no issue what so ever on the truck it gets 10mpg the vw gets 45 so by rights i should be able to go to a filter 4.5 times smaller. The on the suction pump i just ordered for collection i'll use a strainer tip on the stinger of some type taht wont be messy and then into a another ph8a filter housing before it dumps into my staorage tanker trailer. I may also incorparate a propane tank on the tanker trailer i ahve a nice 8 gallon aluminum tank and going thorugh the mountians a nice shot of gas could really help keep the 1.5 liter beast screamin to the top of a hill? I'm just starting to learn about propnae injection and nitriuos as well as methanol/water injection but you can be sure it will be getting something. i'll get back into the pix taking as the build starts this week and hopefully i can get my hands on a camera again. my last camera died from filming in the hovercraft and getting to much salt water spray.
December 16 2007
Here is 1980 vw dasher tank just out of the hot tank and dried.
Here is a shot of the inside of the tank and the star baffle system.
From inside the tank you can see the two lines the bigger is the line to the injector pump and the smaller the return line. As you can see the center star baffle has a plastic tube that is used for a collection for the main fuel line.
Punching the lines for the copper heating coils.
You can see the line i scratched that shows the fuel sendor in the up or full position.
I had lost my mine for a few minutes and punched the tank holes in the top for the heater coolant lines. Easily fixed with pennies for patches and relocating the holes to the bottom of the tank.
Here is a picture of the inlet and oulet for the fittings for the coolant lines.
Here is a better picture of the inlet and oulet.
This lets you see how i was installing the holes. first i used a small center punch and poke a hole in the tank which tanks very little effort. Then i drilled a hole just under the size of the 1/2 copper tube. This let me take my large 1/2 punch and spread the hole open and at the same time bending the metal or flaring the meatl so that the solder joint will have more tank material to bond with than just the edge of a thin piece of sheet metal. On the ford truck i ran into a solder joint crack and came to the conclusion that this was the reason for that joint and i should have not got the hole biggger than the pipe. the fix was a copper sheet cut into a donut around the copper tube and layed ouot a ways on the tank giving a much greater surface area to work with.
Trying to keep the tubes evenly spaced so that the copper fittings will push on with out to much tweaking.
This is the final four tubes I am installing in the tank as I have a issue with keeping them low through the center or middle of the tank becuase of the start baffle. The other end of the tank has the sending unit that stops me from installing tubes. Looks like about 4 ft of 1/2 copper tube will be heating this tank. The more i look at it the more i think this small odd size tank may have utilized a heater core install instead of the tubes if veg oil is being used in a cold climate? will know soon enough.
The sump or bump you see in the tank is the lowest point and the area where your tank will collect water and rust even with oil in it! i just drilled a holeand installed a fitting then screwed a radiator drain plug in. its easy and fast to get the water out and a great way to sample the tank. on the truck i used a1/2 ball cock valvebut i had more clearance. I do know you want the biggest valve incase of maintenence so you can drain the tank as fast as possible. A 1/8 drill bit hole can take over night to drain a tank with 15 gallons in it and thats drilled right in the botton. been there done that.
December 18th 2007
Okay its been a few days since my last update. I've been dragging a bit to get everything perfect on this build as i go so i dont have to do to much refit. It took me a couple days to locate a low level switch out of a briggs and stratton engine. Costs me $20.00 at the local lawn shop ( Jamies lawn mower repair) in lake wood/marysville/arlington area? Looks like a new part and he said he had afew more in stock so i have a suppy source when i start on the trailer. this low oil level switch is a float that basically shorts the engine block to the ignition on the briggs motor so it shuts off or wont start. I am using it in this aplication to connect the ground to my transfer pump when the oil level in the tank drops low. I will use this switch innthe tanker trailer as well and have decided to change the trailer to haul my palletized 250 Gallon or so oil tank I bought off craigs list. I'm going to a tandem axle trailer for the extra weight. I should be doing brakes but the axles we have are not set up for brake backing plates so it will be a little heavy on the vw but the truck wont even see it. Back to the oil switch I had to devise a way to install it as it does not screw into the block it slides into a hole and has two bolts that pull it down onto a gasket. So what I did is found a piece of 1 1/4" copper tube about 1" long and installed a o-ring on the oil switch and slid the copper tube to the o-ring making a seal. Then tomorrow i will solder the copper tube to the tank and on the side of the copper tube i found at the hardware stor a couple brass or copper thread inserts for wood. i will put thses on the side of the copper tube and solser them on so i have the threads to pull against to pull the oil level switch down against the o-ring. if that made since ??? I hope to have some fresh pixs on my next update, left my camera at work on the charger with the current pixs. Also i have decided at some time to ditch the mixing pump that i installed on the truck for the VW. I will switch this pump on the truck to the transer pump from the tanker trailer i think. Make sure you always install at least a couple extra fittings for stuff later.
Briggs and Stratton Oil Guard
What's on Sale at Jacks!!
Oil Guard automatically Stops the engine if the oil level is too low. It can easly be added to engines equipped to receive it. Remove the block off plate, insert the Briggs and Stratton Oil Guard and hook up to the kill switch. All parts necessary to insert the oil guard are included.
Briggs and Stratton Oil Guard
In the image below notice where the Oil Guard is mounted. If your engine can receive an oil guard it will have a removable plate there.!!
Okay its been a while since the last update but I have been working along geting the new system ready. Installed the tank and the new 3/8 10mm fuel lines. ran the pressure side down one side of the car and wrapped it in 1' 26mm polyethelyn water pipe insulation fromm front to back and the same on the return line. i followed the brake lines down the driver side and fuel ines down the passenger side. this allowed me two zip tie it all togethere and then to zip tie it up tight around the body or floor of the car using the steel lines that were there. its very snug and the insulation wrap was self sealing so it glued well and with the added tis it really made it snug and air tight.
January 1 2008 Holy shit I made it, I think.
Spent the day finishing up some lines and power to the micro pump. Used a couple VW bug fuel filters as site glasses on the system so that I could see if the air was geting in and how fast the system switched over between tanks. I dont have the second tank installed but I can see with the micro pump thats switching between fuels is going to be in the 10 to 20 seconds. The car ran for several hours no leaks and no issues. temps are good and i'm getting a return temp for the fuel out of the injector pump at 95 down the road and about 115 to 125 at a idle. This is with a outised temp in the low 40's.
JANUARY 9 2007
I remounted the micro fuel pump tonight. just had it zip tied to the mount i had made and welded to the rad fan shroud. works great but i had a tiny rattle most people could never here over the diesel so i just shock mounted it with some black silicone and its quite now. decided on a place to mount that suction pump i bought for collection of oil. It looks like if weld a half inch plate of flat aluminum to the bottom of the alluminum intake manifold and some extra cross bracing for it i can drill and tap in some studs. then i'll take the pump i have and the slot the mounting bracket so i can install a threaded belt tensoiner to the plates. I'll p[ost some video soon i need to find a cheap camera as i keep ruining them. pixs are okay but i prefer video and its a pain to load resize and publish them to the web. Also look ou for my new book on this conversion technque. In the next few weeks i am hoping to get some help puuting this all down in a book with very specific info on how and why as well as what you need to do to make a black gold commuter car thats hassle free. Also i got ordered a new or custom built fuel tank for the dasher tonight. for the wheel well 22" by 7" with a remote fill vent and sending unit. i need to drop by our local pull a part and sawzall out a gas door set up so i can get it welded in the dasher. it will have a door on both sides for fuel and maybe the same stylke on both sides if i can find another beater dasher? if not what ever gets the filler hose headed in the right direction? actaully i am going to use hose on each end to make the connection but make the fill hose itself out of exhuast pipe. Its just to hard to find filler hoses for fuel that would have the right molded angles. theirs quite a few of you guys out there now emailing me almost daily on your conversions, glad to hear it hope its saving you money. I'm sure we almost have a strangle hold on the terorists by now. wont be long and will have to all re read the constitution and take up arms when they come to try and tax or fuel! I can just see Bush now declaring all oil burners of all types traders for not funding the war with gas taxes. next thing you know we'll have a women president, i take a few days off to work on the oil burner check the news and hilary went from being on the outs to ahead? did she pull down her pants and show the world she has a penis? What ahppened to the days when to corrupted polititions would lied to us until election day force us to vote for mickey mouse and let 12 old people that watch fox news elect the mosty powerful man in the world. No i have to worry about mood swings! well this is not a political blog so i'll say later, to much late niight radio news on this long drive home tonight.
january 26 2008
Its been a while since my last post. The transmission went out in the dasher and stopped my testing. I picked up a used transmission this week for $75.00 and a clucthed kit for $90.00 brand new VW sachs. I also have been working on mounting my collection pump as its been more of a job than i ever imagined in this tniy little engine compartment. I think I have it figured out buts its a lot of work. First off I wanted a new exhuast system as the stock manifold only had a single dump pipe that is 1.5" which is tiny. So I made a call to the local VW guruu MIKE JONES of granit falls and he recommmend a late model diesle manifold now TDI off a rabbit if it would exit in the correct direction as the dasher motor is in line and the rabbit is transverse. so he brought me a rabbit maniflod and a Audi 4000 gas 1800 10 to 1 compression manifold. The audi is the same as the dasher for the most part? But compared to my dasher manifold its huge and he brought the down pipe with it. so I'll try and get it installed this week end with a complete new exhaust system from front to back with 2 or 2.5 inch pipe and two TWISTER mufflers from FLOW PRO. One twister in the resonator spot about where the front seats are and the othere will go behind the axle where the stock muffler is. I used this twister on my hover craft and it works in tight spaces and has great performance as its design is very high tech compared with the average muffler, check them out. http://www.flopro.com/Twister.htmThe Race Car Muffler that provides the best performance, noise
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I also have ordered a new video camera finally on ebay should be here at the end of the month ans i will start posting to my yahoo video page again. I have to be honset i just hate spell checking and picture uploading and resizing.
Abouth the collection pump install or back to it. I found that the pump is so dam big compared to the alternator and diesel pump. I thought I would be able to remove the intake manifold weld a 1/2 plate of alminum to the under side and then install the four studs that the pump mount would bolt to. Then of course make a adjustment bolt that allowed the plate and the pump to slide into tension for the belt. i took the manifold off and fitted the pump visually looked good almost like VW wanted it to be there GOD knows they stuff A/C pumps and steering pumps on like it was akit car design in a garage. This looked better. I took the manifold to a engine rebuild shop down the street from my work T&W machine and wayne that owns the place had one of his guys clean the manifold really well so that i could get the welder to tig this aluminum plate to it ( has to be very clean). Brought it back to the car reftted it to get measure emants and about the time i was reday to go get the welding done i realized the upper sid of the belt was going to cross right through the front motor mount by a smidge at best. Well i need to be beter than a smidge so I can count on this for the next 50 years or so. So i have come up with a new design that uses steel and the brackets offf a rabbit motor but the rabbit motor is a engine i have that came out of a cryler car back in the 1980's like a k car? they used a vw motor back then for a year or so while mitsubishi finisdhed up the 2.2 and 2.5 engines that we all know of them to have now (should have stuck with the vw engine). Any how in our parts shed we have on ewith the tranny bolted to it and it has a power steering bracket tha looks like it will place my pump with modification to the braket right about were i have room for the pump. By the ay there is only one place open that bthe pump will fit on this car so i have to make it fit passenger side of engine onder the exhaust manifold. I'm still driving the pump off the cam pulley by bolting a matching dual groove pulley to the cam pulley again with machine work so it is liek a factoy type install. I'm not a big fan of hacking or half assing stuff. If a say it works it works. It may fail later from me not being a engineer but would i report here i'm having good luck or no problems that means its working as well as a factory installed or made part, just so you have a idea of how i guage stuff. Runnig the hoses from front to back of the car is going to be easy but a hand full of work. i already have the heater hoses and fuel lines for the black diesel under there and i can attach the hydrualic pump lines right next to them on both sides front to rear. I expect this to be a few bucks in hoses and fitings as well as a few days of fititng each hose and fiting before i buy or have the next one made. just like exhaust work the bigger the hose or pipe thaharder it is to get throuugh the bends and over the axles. Since my hose connections will be quick disconnects in the rear bumper i will mount the this pump and then build the bumper so i have a place to head to with a bit more direction for hose placement . Also I have Tim Levin building me a aluminum fuel tank for my spare tire hole and i am going to go to Pull a Part and cut out a new gas door from a VW dasher or rabbit and weld it in for this new tank so it looks stock. This tank should be bready next week? The painter guy I know came buy yesterday and said he can get to the cra in a few weeks when i'm ready and will squirt some stock mexico desert sand color back on it (no door jams) for $450.00. Forgot to mention my new gas door to him so i imagine he'lll nick me for a $50 or so to make that look right. Got the new seat belts installed as well and they work well. The truck I am driving everday and its running great. I think i ran into a second oil supply as well so its a big bonus. I think I'm at a place where i now have more oil that is easy to access than i can ever use. I am looking at a 40 acre property off grid in eastern washington and will be building some cabins and powering them with Listor engine generators. so i will put in storage tanks there as well that will hold a year of fuel maybe two. My pans are to move off grid and run soley on solar wind and deisel listor engines generators. I'm told if i have high spped interenet I'm not off grid but i think if your not hooked into the internet and off grid your a idiot. I have got more knowledge that has been usefull to me off line over the years and met more quality people that genuinly want to help and a chat. where else can you have people find you or run into a person that is looking for exactly what your are doing and most likely wanting to do it themselves. Keep wacthing for video posting here as it gets a lot better with video. HINT it is going to work with diesel injectors and pumps I'm hoping so that it is very control able and effecient. just think how much heat your car puts out running down the road and its using way more fuel than a heater needs. your heater doesnt need to push the weight of your car!
January 30 2008
I got my fuel tank for my spare tire hole yesterday. The tank is perfect and looks great. i should be able to hide it under the carpet with no problem. I'm going to install a new sticker on the gas doors after the paint is done. on the black diesel tank i'm putting instead of diesel fuel only it will say (terrorists lose) and on the other side of the car the new diesel tank will say (terrorist win). Cost me $250 I was planning on $150 but what do you do? its very nice i'll post a video of it this weekend or monday. I git my new video camera and am still trying to figure out how to make it work the way I want. I went to allied in everett wa yesterday and got a pulley that matches the collection pump I bought off northern tool. I got it the same size as the cam pulley i am driving it with. I removed the cam pulley off the dasher last night and today i took it to the macheine shop Covlet machine - J.R. is going to jig up the pulleys on a shaft to get them perfectly square to each other and then tig them together as one. After that it will go to perpetual balance in arlington wa for re-balancing. that should make a nice drive pulley for the collection pump and its a couple more steps closer to it being usuable. Last night i installed the new audi 4000 exhaust manifold and it looks like it will flow much better with a bigger header pipe and and a better angle to leave the engine compartment. Again over the next few days i'll be back into adding video again so you can really see how its going. Also I got a rear disc brake set up for the car so i need to get that installed as well.
February 4 2008
It's been a long week nothing has gone as planned. I Got the transmission replaced on saturday installed the new exhuast manifold and cut the old exhuast system off. Picked up the new martin pulley for the cam shaft. I took it up to the machine shop and had them make a spud to put them together evenly so they could be welded. But when I got to the welder to get my pulleys tigged together The welder tossed them on the drill press and found that the Martin 2 groove pulley was steel and my factory cam shaft pulley was cast iron! Dam! So it can't be welded. I took it back to the machine shop and there going to mate it to the cam pulley and bolt the two together? Will see how it turns out. as soon as it comes back I'll get it re balanced. The truck is still running great on WVO.
February 7 2008
Last night I got the new exhuast system on the dasher. The system is 2" front to back with no muflers so far. I like to set up exhaust on diesels with no mufflers to start with to hear the tone before I pick a muffler> Yes we have a custom exhaust shop and yes I'm very seriuos about exhaust systems. Mufflers on diesels are fopr noise only so if you dont need one dont use one. This system uses a 10.1 compression ratio audi 4000 full flow exhuast manifold obiviuosly off a gas motor. You'll find since most diesel's turn low rpm and produse such great low end toruque the manufacutres really dont care about exhuast size or routing. This is where us VW guys get a head for cheap as a gas mainold is a direct fit and I payed $25 for the manifold and header pipe which wa about half the sysytem under the car.The manifold is a mandrel bent to the center section of the car. Its all aluminized exhaust pipe and fully welded with a 2" by 6" stainless flex pipe in the center of the system to keep all my mounts happy while the motor is torquing from all that raw HP. The motor started out as a 48HP unit and when I get a chance I'll run it on the dynometer and see if I picked up much from the little bit of tweaking so far.
February 16 2008
Not much to update to day. I am still waiting for the machine shop to get to my pulley and while i wait for that i am looking a for another cam pulley to use so I can drive the dasher. I did take the intake gasket over to everett steel and am having them cut out a gasket from 3/8 steel plate so that i can use this to build my new intake manifold. With the new collection pump the stock air horn wont work at all so I'll get up close to the head with the collectors for each cylinder and then run a fresh air intake tube over and in front of the radiator above where i installed the WMO filter. One thing I hate is waiting for parts to be made or modified but dont hacking it together and lettiing it play its self out makes for a much better end product for me. I am collecting up a few parts right now so that I can start on My new collection tank. Its actually two trailers one will be 55 gallons the other will be 220 gallons. Also i did get a new video camera off ebay and it had to be returned! so i ordered a another and its not what i wanted so I am ordering another. I will get some new video up here in the next few days so that you can truly see what it is that i am doing. I'm remodeling my house and my buddy that sheet rocks has picked up a isuzu luv diesle that seems to be a good runner. I'm trading him for sheet rocking and mudding for me doing my conversion to his truck. Hes collecting some parts and a stock fuel tank to match the one in it already. should be a great conversion I'm looking forward to getting him on the SVO WMO road. his other truck is a 78 hot rodded 4x4 so the fuel change will be huge, I believe 10 times the economy. Not bad.
February 22 2008
Found a brand new timing gear today that is steel and not cast. this will allow me to weld my collection pump pulley to it as its steel to. I tossed the gear back on the cra so i could tale it for a weekend cruise. the straight pipe exhaust is very loud under half throttle or more but under that its very quite. i'm going to start with one twister muffler to tone it down for now. I ruin the stock valve cover and switched to a lter model gas cover I had. It needs the breather reworked so i have a rag stuffed in the vent hole right now to keep the oil spray down till next week when i can build a breather system for it. car ran great topped off the tank and should have a new fuel economy number this weekend. hoping to have raised it to more than 45mpg will see. Oh the new transmission works great to.
March 19 2008
Its been a while now. Lots has happened in the free fuel world. I Got my collection pump mounted here is the making of the
bracket. My truck has no air conditioning so I made my pump mount in the location for the A/C pump.
It was a easy bracket to make, started with some plate steel and removed the aluminum bracket on the power steering bracket to the head and used it as a template for the collection pump bracket. very slick really just 3 quick holes on the drill press with the two plates c-clamped together. then a little trimming in the band saw. I bolted the the two brackets on and set the top piece in place and spot welded it then removed the bracket finished the welding on all sides and re installed it with holes for the pump. I use the steering pump as the belt tensioner which is still stock. there was no alteration of the ford product (truck) here.
this is a 3000 psi 30 gallon per minute geared hydraulic pump running on 12 volt electric clutch.
This is a side shot where you can see the power steering pump and the bracket for the collection pump using the steering pump bracket and bolt.
I have more pictures but no time to get them up tonight. I have plumbed the pump down to the front bumper in 1 1/4" pipe and installed 1 1/4" cam locks fro the two 20 ft suction hoses i had made that also have locking cam locks and caps so there will be no dripping where i collect. I have my 275 gallon tank mounted in the truck bed and will finish running the pipe to the bed and installing the rear control valve and switch for the electric clutch on the pump. Can't wait to maybe fill the tank in the truck bed tomorrow. that will give me a 3000 mile range between fill ups!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This weekend i hope to get my steel 250 gallon heating oil tank raised up and mounted so i can store oil in it and have gravity feed from it. then at work i have 1000 gallon storage. BAM! ive been working my ass off for this and spending money on it like it was free fuel. Just the collection pumps and hoses so far have ran me about $1000.00 bucks and climbing.
Now for the bad stuff the dasher motor broke a oil pump lost the bottom end, good bye my little german motor! the good news i steh new turbo and my custom brackets and flanges for the turbo set up is ready to go on when I get a chance to toss in the new crank kit. I also just had gotten the second tank in and the filler neck which i will post some picts for as its all billet and looks very cool!
March 21 2008
I got the chance to suck up some oil with the new collection pump for the first time tonight. Holly shit this thing rocks!!!!!!!! I can get 100 gallons in just a few minutes at a idle and if i just barely bring up the rpms on the engine its like a fire hose in volume. Every one that was there helping me was blown away by the system. 1.25" intake and 1" exhuast on the pump is just huge volumes. Its perfect if i knew it would be this good i would have paid twice as much for every thing. The install is very clean and a great big thanks goes out to my buddy Neal for plumbing the truck itself. I will get some video this weekend of it. words are not enough. The tank is all bolted in and the truck doesnt even feel it. all the suctions hoses and cam lock fittings where worth the extra cash. simply no mess at all I collected a quik 125 gallons in a few minutes and we found one small drip on the ground. yes one single drip and if i had had a rag in my hand i could have got it before it hit the ground. By far none its the best system i have ever used seen or had. i have eliminated every pit fall of all the other systems i have used or had. I'm just on cloud nine! gave it a quick 125 mile road trip home after work and its tight and clean. Now i need to install a tool box to hold my cam lock connectors and my stinger. and the vacuum the pump has is incredible soon as i turned the pump on at idle the hose shot full of oil from about 40 ft distance and 5 ft of head. I figure it will suck up at least 40 ft horizontal from my calculations prior to buying it and now i'm sure it will do at least that. NO MORE FUEL BILL FOR ME! THANK YOU JESUS! lol So i'm set up top collect from lube cubes drums barrels tanks etc. spent another 200$ today and probaly that tomorrow on some more suction ends i want on board as well as i will be connecting the transfer pump to the trucks distilling tank for on board processing auomatically so i dont have to get out and open the actaul fuel door. I need to elimanate the fuel door opeing and closing as it makes me have PTSD every time i touch the f-ing thing remebering how badly i have been raped by the oil company's. With all that oil they could at least use lube or give you aquick reach around so you knew they cared a little.
March 23 2008
Holy smokes its beeen a busy weekend tweaking the system and i had a bunch of great help from friends. Infact its 3pm and i just woke up we had a all nighter workinbg on the truck and then breakfast at Denny's i got to bed at 4 am. We added a transfer pump from the 275 gallon tank to the port I added to the front main truck tank when i built the tank. Then we built a through hull fitting for the bed tank and installed it with a pick up tube to the bottom of the container tank or is it a pallet tank? Its one of those big plastic cubies that can be moved with a fork lift. Then we ran the power for the pump to the dash which we had to pull out to do a clean install and put the wires in up to the right side of the dash clucter next to the gas gauge. now i can insatll the transfer pump switch which is going to be one of those bathroom fan or light timers. so when i need fuel i just set the timer for about how ever minutes i want to push fuel to the main tank with out over filling. We used a small micro pump for the fuel transfer and it was rated for gas or diesel at about 25 to 30 gph so with oil its going to be half that i'm guessing so its not realistic to think I could flip a switch and in two hours remeber to shut it off. but it should transfer much more than the truck burns so i'll never run the tank out waiting for a re fuel. if it is a little slow i will add another pupmp to the lione to boost the volume which i have in the past playing and it changes dramatically (cold weather). I also had a fuel sending unit which i thought was hanging up on the heating tubes in the tank so we piulled that tank and corrected that. With on board distilling, cleaning and the ability to fill the storage tank of 275 gallons in just minutes I believe this may be one of the most user friendly and effeincent systems ever installed yet.
march 25 2008
Okay another couple days of really putting in the hours. first off I should say that we found a couple things out we thought we had already learned. oil is thicker than water! how tick you say, well its dam thick. we installed to fass fuel pumps inline on the storage tank and could not even get the oil to move. So we went to the garage and selected from the asortment of pumps. I selected the 12 volt german made in line fuel injection pump used on the mercedes, vw bmw etc. we gave it 3 ft of head and a bucket of oil to suck from and calculated about 4 gallons per hours. which sucks the truck uses 6 and up gallons per hour. but at least with this pump were able to transfer oil to the trucks distilling tank. We also installed a bathroom timer for a fan or light bin the dash of teh truck with a pilot light and fuse so we know when its running. it really works great should have done this a while back. Neal made the install and it works perfect and looks like ford installed it. Were going to add a heater coil in the storage tank and also were going to switch to a neew style fuel pump for the trucj engine as well as the transfer pump between the tanks. The plan is to install to power steering pumps off a honda or subaru? i have them already. run them off the belts like thier stock components but instead of running a stearing gear or box they will be used as a the main fuel pump. the fuel after the switching valves for the two tanks will be routed to the suction side of the pump and then routed out the pressure side to the injector pump. since there will be no blockage of the line there will be lots of volume and little pressure. were expecting this to operate at a very high volume and stop any cold weather waiting time for teh oil to thin from heat. my tow truck has no issue so i know we need to get a better pump in there. this way i can save another gallon of diesel at every cold start up (SMO). On the second pump i will run it from the storage tank to the pump and then to the distilling tank witha electric solinoid inline to control the flow. the solinoid will be hooked to my new timer so i can have complete control over it as i expect it to fill very fast. The transfer pump will be installed in a loop with a second solinoid to stop the pump from scavengiing back to the discharge side and cavatating. If all goes well i will have better pumps than the big high quality ones that are electric for 500$ each. I'll post picts and probably start mounting the pumps next week.
March 28 2008
I took apart a couple steering pumps to day. i think they are off a honda. Probably a older honda as back in the day they mounted the pumps on the other side of the belt because the honda motors turn backwards. So I lookinside and saw no reason it would not work very well. There all metal inside including the weight sliders, they had no signs of wear and I did not see a internal pressure relief. Next week I hope to have this pump up and running on the truck as the fuel pump to the injector pump.
April 3 2008
Having heated my front stock tank for svo processing. Let me be more clear here. When i say straight VO i mean pump it nasty or clean right into the processing tank and drive on it right then. No filter no buckets cubies nothing! suck it up drive away on it. thats SVO anyt thing else is some thing else period. I'm getting tired of hearing guys talk about there SVO system when they have a garge that looks like a chemsitry set exploded in it. My system runs WVO or WMO seprate or mixed no messing around period. I dont have to buy filters, i dont have filters plugging up at all. When its cold out and the block heater is not plugged in like say after work i give ita quick shot of starting fluid and its starts right up. i can then wait a few minutes for it to warm the tank or switch to diesel and just drive away. My system up until now has been unisulated from the engine to the tank. i figure this has cost me in diesel at least a few gallons a day when its below freezing. remember i drive at least 100 miles per day and get 10 mpg so i'm really sucking up the go go juice. For example today it was 28 f when i started Big Blue and i then drove on diesel for almost 25 miles or the next town before the truck thermostat opened and exchanged coolant in the radiator when i came to the local stop light and slowed that cold air that was blowing all the BTU's off hoses and steel black diesel tank. So today i stopped in at lowes and picked up enough armor flex to insulate the heater lines to the black diesel tank and a 60 gallon hot water heater blanket to wrap the tank with a box of contracter garbage bags to wrap aroud the hot water insulation blanket to keep it form getting wet. Today i got the armor flex on and tomorrow i'll get the tank out and really wrap the hell out of it. My new goal is 15 minutes idle warm up to drive on black diesel or five miles max for full power. i say full power becuase cold today i could have set the cruise on 45mph and ran on black diesel but the oil is to thick for the pump to deliver enough gph to the IP for any more HP than what it takes to get that 45mph. no once i get it warmed up even on a cold day it re heats so fast i can run on black diesel with no problems and no switching. I have also picked up a couple used turbos for it and will be going twin turbo very soon. it looks like i have every thing but a second egt for the exhaust. I'm mounting the turbos under the truck in the open area just aft of the front fenders. the engine compartment is so full of crap that it will be so much easier to just run athe boosted cool tube up to the intake and keep the hot stuff under the truck. Besides it will give me the extra room for the air filters right on the turbos sinc i wont be using a intercooler. I installed a trans cooler that is almost as big as the raidiator itself. its the A/C condensor out of a car witha remote oil filter on the system with a drain plug in the transmission pan. so if there are no leaks i just open the drain cock on the pan every engine oil change and then topp it back off with fresh atf. I could spin a filter on the trans every once and awhile but i'm not sure you could ver plug it unless you blew it up. so really it will just keep the crap out of the cooler when it scatters one day. also i remove the filter in the transmission and installed a pick up tube that reaches the pans bottom like that do in race cars. this should keep the transmission Ice cold hauling. I also removed the trans cooler lines out of the radiator so that i'm not heating the oil then trying to cool back down which makes no sense but I guess it keep the transmission shops in business? I'm half tempted to istall a diff cooler on it but not sure what to use for a pump. i'm sure a car car or truck has one out there i just have not looked for it yet. Also bought a new set of tires for the truck from the wrecking yard for $175.00 and also just for fun ordered the megacab dodge emblem for there 4 door beast. i think i'll mount it over the f 350 emblem or i should say the f 450 emblems when it goes in for paint. i'm putting in the new fender vent emblems from a new truck. i like to mix up a bit. also got yesterday the new glass trim for the doors and all theseals which were over 300 buck aroos from ford but the drivers door was so leaky the drive home tonigh was so much nicer. I could watch and hear the movie playing on the DVD player with out a wind whistle in my ear. So to get back to the top of this entry, if you have to do anything to wvo or wmo then your not running straight your vehicle is not set up for straight your just using one of them!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! try not to make your self look like that guy when you post your running straight when really your filtering the shit out of it probably to much!!!!!!! then installing it and filetering it even more or mixing it with diesel, bio etc. It doesnt make you less of a person but it sure helps out new poeple trying to figure out what the hell your talking about. The next person that tells me diesel or VO is a better lube than motor oils beter have a f-ing degree in chemical engieering or atleast be able to comprehend that engines blow up if you run VO or diesel in the crank case. also if it doesnt heart your soft bearings on the crank and rods how the hell is it going to even mar the hardened parts in your injector pump.
April 5 2008
Yesterday we pulled the black diesel tank and wrapped it in a 60 gallon hot water tank blanketb and then in side of four thick contractor garbage bags to keep the water out. Used that gorrila duct tape for the seems (great stuff). basically I am after two things here first i wont to be able to run VO any time i want and that takes a pre heat that wmo does not. second the lame electric pumps i have been running have such a slow gph rate that i need the tank hot fast so i can just pump the oil to the IP. I was looking at a couple honda power steering pumps i have to make a fuel pump. with the pump full flowing i hosuld have a great volume but i'm not sure the steering pump and the little throw out vanes create suction and i have yet to find any one that acualy knows. since the steering resivoirs are always on every single car mounted above the pump My assumption is the vacuum may be poor and thats what i need? So on ebay I have found a small pump that is gear driven runs 1.8 gph and is small enough building a mount should be failry easy and the pump is a standard pump from this company so i could re order it if it failed. So I have been telling myself for a while now to take off the factory pump on the motor (fuel) and put in a block off!!!!!! well time caught up wioth me and kick my ass again and the pump went out filled the crank case with fuel and dumped 40 gallons of diesel on the ground coming home. I t took a bit on the side of the road but i was able to instal;l mytransfer pump for my bed tank in line and use it as my pump to the IP. drove home fine on the bosch pump. (I use the inline frame mounted pumps out of a rabbbit or bmw. So for the good news just before it failed i had the tank nice and hot and the truck had more power than ever before on used oil. first off for you newbies tring to catch up and you know it alls the tank temp has nothihng to do with power, not even the oils viscocity plays in to it. I simply have not had a good pump that could move the oil and was always starving a bit on power at the top end. When you start running wmo at 100% you need a big fuel pump gear driven and the re expensive. I am now leaning towards using a actaul hydraulic pump for a fuel pump as its designed to do the job like no other pump. there are electric pumps yes but they are designed to run diesles or gas and it slows them down so much on the electric motor that they burn up fairly quickly. I have had so much succes with my oil collection pump and the volume is so enourmous with virtually no issues i am confident that using the is tiny little hydraulic pump will get me the GPH i need to run at full power cold right out of the gate. With my twin turbo set up i will be adding at least 80 hp to this 6.9 and that will require and additional 8 gallons per hour when fully loaded. So i now know i need at least 20 gph in a pump and i can tell you from all this f-ing around its not in a inline electric pump. If your just starting out i recommmend you start with a nascar or race car dry sump system that will give you one mounting pump with as many stages as you need, fuel pump , transfer pump, collection pump and any other pump you may want or need in the future. there laso cheaper used that what i payed for my collection pump, not as big but very comapct and controllable. Shit if you have a hydraulic winch or want one you can run it on one of these as well. If its not a gear pump driven off your belts its probably not going to work for long? and get that stock p[ump out of the system its just a problem waiting to happen.
April 9 2008
Got the steering pump/fuel pump installed yesterday and and the lines hooked up tonight with the new drive belt, its sweet!!!!!! I'll get guages on it tomorrow but it looks like the dream ticket so far. huge volume hhuugggeeee. The pump looks like a factory install for most part and when the motor comes out for the overhual it will give me a chance to make it look better than the factory. Were also starting to see that almost every truck on the road runs out of fuel at full throttle from a low quality factory pump. So we took the pump off the block and put in its place a chevy fuel pump block off. You dont want to have to change this beast on the road side any way its a pain and if your ride is greasy its just a bitch.
april 12 2008
I have ordered some gauages to put on the new steering pump. Even in its free flow design for a fuel pump it at some moment is creating just a bitch to much pressure. How much that bis were not sure of yet but i'll know soon and i believe i'm just headed towards a custom oil pressure relief added to the system. My theory is that the by pass pass in the pump has to small of a diverting hole to return the high pressure back to the low pressure side? I think i am ghoing to take this weekend off the project and were just starting to detail the truck and get it back to spic and span. a little oil here and there adds up. besides some guy at the car lot i bought it at tried to paint the door panels a awful color so we got some plastic paint close to what it should be amd will see if we can bring the inside of the truck back up to specs. i just installed new window seals on all the doors and that was 300$ from ford but they work sweet and the cab is nice and quite now. No current isuues running on 100% wmo. just like every svo guy out there as summer or spring comes a little closer all the issues go away with heat. Right now the truck is paying me back just to work and back $30.00 a day. I have the new turbo dasher motor too!!!!!!!!!!! time to get that bad boy installed and back up to 50 mpg.
April 15 2008
Not much to tell I'm still a holiday from this machine. Well actaully i'm driving buit not working on it. Its just happy as a truck can be 100% wmo. I need to get some updates done to my hovercraft then back to the beast. its camping season!
April 18 2008
Okay couldnt help my self today. Neal poped the front seal in the steering pump back nin and it works perfect. installed a gauge on the pump and found it to have about 50 psi to 65 psi. did not get a chance to run a volume chaeck on it yet but I can assure you its putting out way more than the other pumps we have tried. Neal installed a by pass around our frame mounted bosch fuel pump that i have been runnning on. The pressure seems to be the same on diesel or black diesel when the tank is warm so i'll get more readings in the am and post them. were getting a bit of snow right now so it will be a great cold start to full power run in the morning. I'm betting on i get full power out of the wmo.
April 20 2008
Did a cold start on diesel and saw what looked to be about 25 psi switched to wmo and the pressure went from 25 psi to 100 psi and then as the diesel was pushed out of the line it came back to 50 psi. ran thorugh it one more time and got the same results. so my theory is that the suction or pick up from the tanks is to small for the oil to pull at its full volume when its cold. switching to diesel is somuch easier on the pump it comes right up and out of the tank there is no starvation issue and the pump is able to build more pressure since it is has more fuid to compress verses air will compress ginving a lower number than a solid or liquid will. on a positive note it took just a slight heating of the tank to thin it down for the new pump to come into full swing. i would say if i hav eno leaks and no signs of the pump wearing from running the diesel through it i shall install a oil pressure relief externally on the lines them selves an take the pump back up to its stock high pressure and volume and control the psi and volume with the regaulator on the lines. if your not keeping up with me here the issue is the steering pump creates a high preesure when the oil is cold jsut like your cars engine oil. to beat this we need a by passing regulator lots of tractors run these or engine oil pumps have them built in. we know a chevy idles on 20 psi and cruise on 40 psi and maxs out arounbd 60 psi when its new and correct. i know from engine building that most engines produce several hundred lbs of oil pressure and all but what you see on the guage is diverted back to the oil pan so the fileter is not blown off. By the way a oil fileter blows off at 225 psi or so. racew cars some times use a external by pass when running dry sumps etc. this si where i am heading. its easy to istall and require veirtually no mods to the pump or truck if i'm right except doing the lines to and from the tank bigger.
April 21 2008
Well this system is very close and had lots of potential but it has shown several week spots (blows the seals out and shows pressure spikes) that make it non worthy of a daily commuter. Remember my goal is long term low maintence and the system needs to be able to retrofit to any diesel . I have a new idea and will begin testing very soon as parts arrive.
Blog alert
You know I check every vistor here to see where you or how you found me. I get tons of emails on how to correct things and I always help in fact I like to. My real goal is to give you every thing you need here to do it your self and then offer detailed specific plans to help the DIY guy.
FOR THE F-ING RECORD YOUR INJECTOR PUMP WILL LAST LONGER WITH ENGINE OIL RUNNING THROGH IT THAN DIESLE OR WVO. INFACT I'M TIRED OF HEARING WVO IS A LUBRICUNT ITS NOT!!!!!!! NEITHER IS DEISEL BUT ITS BETTER!!!!!!!!!! THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN 20 MICRONS AND 2 MICRONS IS SO F-ING CLOSE THAT IT TAKES A HIGH POWERED MICROSCOPE TO EVEN TELL THEM APART.
IF YOUR BABBET BEARINGS THAT ARE MADE OF VERY SOFT METALS (WERE TALKING ABOUT ROD AND CRANK BEARINGS HERE) HAVE VIRTUALLY NO HARM WHATS SO EVER FROM FILTERED WMO THAT IS FILTERED TO 20 MICRONS THERE IS NO REASON TO THINK THE HARDENED PARTS INSIDE YOUR INJECTOR PUMP WOULD EVEN BE PHASED BY THIS PARTICULATE.
MOST OF THE BLACK IS THE OIL DISCOLORED FROM HEAT. IF YOU IDIOTS WOULD INSTALL SOME GUAGES YOU WILL SEE THAT CARS THAT HAVE CLEAN OIL AT EVERY OIL CHANGE NOT ONLY DO REGULAR OIL CHANGES THEY ALSO RUN SMALL OIL COOLERS. THERE RADIATORS ARE NOT HALF PLUGGED UP AND THE TRANS COOLER IS USUALLY ON ITS OWN NOT RAN IN THE RADIATOR.
IF YOU HAD GUAGES ON YOUR ENGINE OIL TEMP, WATER TEMP, TRANS OIL TEMP YOU WOULD SEE THAT YOUR VEHICLE IS COOKING THE OIL AND THE THERMOSTAT GUAGE ON YOUR DASH IS TELLING YOU EXACTLY WHAT ITS SUPPOSE TO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THE THERMOSTAT IS OPERATING CORRECTLY WHICH ACTAULLY HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE PERFECT RUNNING TEMP OF YOUR MOTOR OIL.
INSTALL A OIL COOLER AND TRANS COOLER MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE THE LINES FROM THE RADIATOR. THINK ABOUT IT 160 TO 170 IS THE MAX TEMP FOR A TRANSMISSION'S LONGEST LIFE AND THE FIRST THING YOU DO IS RUN IT TO THE RADIATOR THAT IS OVER 200F. REMEMBER YOU GENUIS'S THAT WATER ONLY COOLS THE CYLINDER WALL AND THE HEADS THE CRANK RODS AND PISTONS ARE COOLED WITH OIL. THE OIL IS THE THING YOU NEED TO GET DOWN AS IT HOLDS THE TEMP THE LONGEST OF ANY FLUID AND THE PARTS ARE THE HOTTTEST.
WHEN A MOTOR BLOWS UP ITS ALMOST ALWAYS A BROKEN CONNECTING ROD AT THE PISTON!!!! LETS SAY THAT AGAIN!!!!! AT THE PISTON SO WHAT FAILED? IT WAS THE RIST PINN SIEZED! ITS THE FARTHEST PART FROM THE OIL PUMP AND THE HOTTEST PART IN THE ENGINE. THATS WHY IT HAS NO BABBET BEARING IT WOULD SIMPLY MELT. THE RIST PIN IS WHAT YOUR ip LOOKS LIKE INSIDE FOR THE MOST PART.
SO TWO THINGS TO THINK ABOUT HERE IS THAT DIRTY OIL IS JUST DIS-COLORED THATS WHY ITS NOT GRINDING YOUR MOTOR UP AND IF YOUR OIL IS GETTING BURNT OR DIS-COLORED IN YOUR RIG BEFORE YOU GET TO THE OIL CHANGE ITS RUNNING TO HOT AND OVER HEATING PUT A GUAGE ON IT. THEN A OIL COOLER GET IT WAY DOWN AND ALWAYS GET THOSE COOLERS OUT OF THE RADIATORS AND IN MOUNTED IN FRONT OF THEM. NEVER USE THE FACTORY COOLERS IN TH RADIATOR THEY JUST HEAT YOUR OIL UP NOT COOL THEM DOWN. THINK ABOUT IT FOR JUST ONE SECOND. THE COOLANT IS HOTTOR THAN THE OUTSIDE AIR!!!!!
IT JUST MAKES SINCE AND I'M JUST TIRED OF HEARING PEOPLE TELL OTHERS ALL THIS BACK YARD B.S. WHEN THE REAL ANSWER IS SO OBVIUS BUT HIDDEN FROM THE GENERAL PUBLIC SINCE ONLY A FEW CARS HAVE OIL TEMP GUAGES LIKE A FERRARI AND PORCHE? THATS WHY THERE STUFF IS THE HIGHEST QUALITY.
THANKS FOR VISTING HOPE YOU LEARNED SOME THING.
April 26 2008
After another 30 hours of testing and several hundred dollars in parts I can say I have cracked the fuel pump issue. Amazing how difficult it was to get it to work let alone flawlessly. With out base line testing each and every change. I can say there is almost no chance in hell any one can stumble on to the tricks or answers. I have listened to so many people with so many opinions tell me what works and what doesnt. I am happy to report that no one had any advice that helped lead to this find at all. Infact my theory's were mostly proved wrong every time. I not only figured out how to deliver and regulate wmo like diesel but in a way that automatically compensates for out side temperture to at least freezing. No diesel switch over needed but in the event switching to diesel is needed or wanted the system compensates and adjust for the change all on its own. This system can be installed on any diesel or turbine system or I should say any system that runs diesel as it's primary fuel.
I'm not sure what i'm going to do with this info yet? At some point I had plan to let everyone have it? But I have so much time and money in it I need to re coupe some or all of it so that I can continue my gasoline to wmo, wvo or diesel conversion. I had to develop this fuel system to continue with my gasoline to wmo engine conversion. Now that I have a working system I'm back to the main objective. If any one is interested in licensing, leasing, trading or buying this info contact me. I can see this being very value able to WVO conversion companies that have customers that live to close to work to be able to get switced over to wvo to really make it worth it. This system should make SVO so much easier to convert to daily drivers with out so much hassle.
From Crude Oil
The problem with crude oil is that it contains hundreds of different types of hydrocarbons all mixed together. You have to separate the different types of hydrocarbons to have anything useful. Fortunately there is an easy way to separate things, and this is what oil refining is all about.
The oil refining process starts with a fractional distillation column.
Different hydrocarbon chain lengths all have progressively higher boiling points, so they can all be separated by distillation. This is what happens in an oil refinery - in one part of the process, crude oil is heated and the different chains are pulled out by their vaporization temperatures. Each different chain length has a different property that makes it useful in a different way.
To understand the diversity contained in crude oil, and to understand why refining crude oil is so important in our society, look through the following list of products that come from crude oil:
Petroleum gas - used for heating, cooking, making plastics
small alkanes (1 to 4 carbon atoms)
commonly known by the names methane, ethane, propane, butane
boiling range = less than 104 degrees Fahrenheit / 40 degrees Celsius
often liquified under pressure to create LPG (liquified petroleum gas)
Naphtha or Ligroin - intermediate that will be further processed to make gasoline
mix of 5 to 9 carbon atom alkanes
boiling range = 140 to 212 degrees Fahrenheit / 60 to 100 degrees Celsius
Gasoline - motor fuel
liquid
mix of alkanes and cycloalkanes (5 to 12 carbon atoms)
boiling range = 104 to 401 degrees Fahrenheit / 40 to 205 degrees Celsius
Kerosene - fuel for jet engines and tractors; starting material for making other products
liquid
mix of alkanes (10 to 18 carbons) and aromatics
boiling range = 350 to 617 degrees Fahrenheit / 175 to 325 degrees Celsius
Gas oil or Diesel distillate - used for diesel fuel and heating oil; starting material for making other products
liquid
alkanes containing 12 or more carbon atoms
boiling range = 482 to 662 degrees Fahrenheit / 250 to 350 degrees Celsius
Lubricating oil - used for motor oil, grease, other lubricants
liquid
long chain (20 to 50 carbon atoms) alkanes, cycloalkanes, aromatics
boiling range = 572 to 700 degrees Fahrenheit / 300 to 370 degrees Celsius
Heavy gas or Fuel oil - used for industrial fuel; starting material for making other products
liquid
long chain (20 to 70 carbon atoms) alkanes, cycloalkanes, aromatics
boiling range = 700 to 1112 degrees Fahrenheit / 370 to 600 degrees Celsius
Residuals - coke, asphalt, tar, waxes; starting material for making other products
solid
multiple-ringed compounds with 70 or more carbon atoms
boiling range = greater than 1112 degrees Fahrenheit / 600 degrees Celsius
What is the difference between gasoline, kerosene, diesel, fuel, etc.?
The "crude oil" pumped out of the ground is a black liquid called petroleum. This liquid contains aliphatic hydrocarbons, or hydrocarbons composed of nothing but hydrogen and carbon. The carbon atoms link together in chains of different lengths.
It turns out that hydrocarbon molecules of different lengths have different properties and behaviors. For example, a chain with just one carbon atom in it (CH4) is the lightest chain, known as methane. Methane is a gas so light that it floats like helium. As the chains get longer, they get heavier.
The first four chains -- CH4 (methane), C2H6 (ethane), C3H8 (propane) and C4H10 (butane) -- are all gases, and they boil at -161, -88, -46 and -1 degrees F, respectively (-107, -67, -43 and -18 degrees C). The chains up through C18H32 or so are all liquids at room temperature, and the chains above C19 are all solids at room temperature.
The different chain lengths have progressively higher boiling points, so they can be separated out by distillation. This is what happens in an oil refinery -- crude oil is heated and the different chains are pulled out by their vaporization temperatures. (See How Oil Refining Works for details.)
The chains in the C5, C6 and C7 range are all very light, easily vaporized, clear liquids called naphthas. They are used as solvents -- dry cleaning fluids can be made from these liquids, as well as paint solvents and other quick-drying products.
The chains from C7H16 through C11H24 are blended together and used for gasoline. All of them vaporize at temperatures below the boiling point of water. That's why if you spill gasoline on the ground it evaporates very quickly.
Next is kerosene, in the C12 to C15 range, followed by diesel fuel and heavier fuel oils (like heating oil for houses).
Next come the lubricating oils. These oils no longer vaporize in any way at normal temperatures. For example, engine oil can run all day at 250 degrees F (121 degrees C) without vaporizing at all. Oils go from very light (like 3-in-1 oil) through various thicknesses of motor oil through very thick gear oils and then semi-solid greases. Vasoline falls in there as well.
Chains above the C20 range form solids, starting with paraffin wax, then tar and finally asphaltic bitumen, which used to make asphalt roads.
All of these different substances come from crude oil. The only difference is the length of the carbon chains!
I have decided to offer a conversion manual. It should be ready for purchase around July 1st.
Thank you for visiting
My last tank of fuel in the f-350 took me 2400 miles and I only consumed 5 gallons of actual Diesel from the pump.
Not Bad for a crew cab 6.9L at over 8k lbs loaded with fuel.
Update june 28th 2008
The book manual is only half ready as i keep adding to it. I have tested another method of transfering thick cold oil on a small diesel engine with out having to heat any fuel tanks and have had great success. I want to add this to the book with pictures. I currrently have just taken the motor out of the ford f 350 I use for testing and am starting to make the alterations to the engine itself to see what it takes to start up a engine on straight wmo. I'm starting with numbers just over the VW compression ratio as it is my next motor to test out and they seem to operate for hundreds of thousands of miles. I'll give you a bit of what i'm up to, VW idi runs 23 to1 ratio and ford 6.9 runs 19.5 to 1 or 20.5 as the 7.3 liter. As you install bigger pistons you are forcing more volume into the same cylinder head CC space. Since 6.9 and 7.3 use the same heads (there is a small variance I have read about between 6cc and 8 cc info from www.beckracing.com). So i have located some new maule pistons at a great price with rings in the 7.3 liter or 104 mm size I believe it is for my custome build. i will be either milling a bit off the head or welding up the cylinder headcompression chamber to raise the cranking compression from the stock 425 aprox. to 550 psi. Vw runs right under this so i'm not worried about the ratio but it may hamper my boost numbers a bit anf fuel economy trying to maintian a decent exuast gas temp with my new turbo set up. I'm have purchased two k 26 turbos withcast pipe flanges and custom made fittings from jason the turbo guy in Stanwood Wa 425 299 2968. for a great price of $150 for both. If you need turbos rebuilt or good used units call him. I have also purchased ever gauage i think will fit in the dash from www.egauges.com. Its truely the wrong time of year for this engine build for me as i should have waited tell winter but this old motor had so low compression and the fuel economy was so poor from having 3 or 4 hundred thousand miles on it. I think I the beginng of the post i said it had 120k but i was bull shitted by the car lot. the truck is in great condition minus the ford flake paint and it starts right up and drives good on diesel but barley it was down to 225 on some cylinders and one at 150 and i stopped there as i know that is virtually a dead hole and probbaly wear my oil consumption was. Its very hard to tell oil cunsumption when you burn oil! LOL . Something i will note from a couple sites that had been blogging about my project. The trucks on wmo are not smoking excessivly and you can not see the smoke running down the road or at idle any more than diesle but you do smell oil burning and not the standard diesel smell. the isuzu likes to slowly start to what i call load up at a idle and start seeing signs of lite smoke after a minute or so but if you raise the fast idle up it cleans right out. it has 330 k or so on it i'm guessing it could use some rings to add some running compression to elimate this since it goes away when the running compresion is increased with raisnng the ilde? pretty sure about this. Well this week i'm devoting to my hover craft maintenence and a few new installs like my new 3210c garmin chart plotter and some other great toys. i'm headecup the sauk river with two other hovers to a place that use to have a hot spring that was washed out by a flood a while back. our goal is to build a new pool and rename it. i have a old hot tub i'm hoping to install if we can get flow out of the banks side of hot water. then we can install a pipe and let it fill the tub and over flow. this way it can be cleaned out as hot psrings being warm can build germs and bacteria. be nice to just push the fill pipe out of the way dump in some bleach and scrub it with a car wash brush then let it rinse for a while before using it. So next week i'll start the motor over haul and as soon as it runs i can get pictures for the book with both fuel supply styles in it. I know the idi works great but i have many di systems around here that need conversion so my second system i have come up with looks like it will be perfect for a single tank di truck which should cover every thing else as well as a friend plays with turbines and he is having great luck with wmo in his turbines. Be nice to get enough info out there that anyone with a little mechanical know how can get converted to wmo or wvo with out all the filtering or processing like i am doing. thanks for all the emails i think i'm averaging about ten a day asking for a manual and about 100 hits a day on my site pretty cool considering i was writing a personal blog to keep track of notes for my self. Untill i get the manual done in a few weeks just practice with some blending to help take the edge off the price of fuel. you will get away with a lot while its warm out and i'll have some info for you to get ready for winter with a complete system.
Okay I got horn swaggled! I bought a used turbo motor for the dasher did the conversion got it running tonight and it has more blow bye then a freight train! Just pisses me off it was suppose to be a low mileage engine. any how i ordered parts for the rebuild and will get it done this weekend. should be driving it monday. i have a really cool design i came up with that may allow guys in very cold weather to run wmo with out heating or modifying there stock fuel tanks. will see as soon as i get a couple hundred miles on this beast i'll switch to the black deisel and start testing this new design. if it works i'll add it in to the conversion manual. Thanks for all the emails i'm getting. some times there are more than i can get to but i read all of them.
July 30th 2008
I have been busy with making this dasher motor perfect so my test numberrs could be used as a base line. It just was not working correctly so i tore it down and found that at some time it was run with the timing belt on wrong and just beat the shit out of the piston tops and that squeashed the aluminum down and pinched the rings and the rings were worn out on one side and new on the other side of the piston. my fault for starting with used. So i ordered a set of pistons and shipped the turbo IP off for a rebuild and should have it running in a week and a half and back to testing. If it were easy everyone would be doing it!
august 24th
Finally got the IP back from the rebuild shop on thursday. I need to beat some new valve guides in to the head and its back together. Also i went on vacation and i think every weekend this summer i have benn out flying my hovercraft which I enjoy very much. But i'm taking a few weeks off from that and getting back to the oil conversion testing. The ford truck has been getting about 20 mpg or so towing so i'm happy with that. The dasher is what i really am interested in. most people are not communting with a truck and a oil supply will be so much easier to keep up with if your cruising a car. Looks like were going to pull out the old diesel benz and give it a conversion pump system and run it on a blend using its stock single tank. i may add a boat large gallon tank to the trunk just to carry oil for blending. i think two or three fill ups worth of blending at %50 percent is more than enough. on a hot day if your tank is low enough and there is no load issue with puling i want to be able to transer oil to the main tank and run at 100% every time i can and just stop for more diesel to blend againto get back to my happy mix %.Its a old beast with lots of miles but it runs good and fires right up. I think i may have elimintaed the need for heating a tank at all running wmo but for wvo that can gel up you still need heat. I also have a new flip ultra video camera and will post some video of the dasher here in the next few days when its running again. i think i have only about3k$ in this 1.6 turbo rebuild! i payed way to much for the used motor as i was let to believe it was virtually new!!!!!!!!!!!! still pissed about that. at least i can recoupe it in fuel savings.
september 20 2008
This is part of a email with a fellwo oil user that has been going back and fourth with me on a design idea. Its based on using a power steering pump to supply oil from the tank with out needing to heat it at the tank. using only a heat log in the engine compartment big enough for you to keep up with your GPH of your diesel verses 90f temp the oil seems to like to flow at. Its just me rambling about things i have tried what is working for me and how i am going to go about it during the new engine install.
Just to be clear here we used the regulator backwards so we were bleeding volume and hence getting lower pressure at the IP. we were able to control the steering pump down to the 13psi or so and adjust 1 psi at atime if we wished to.
We also have been talking about just heating a log in the engine compartment and using the pumps full power to draw the cold oil to the engine and have it recirculate in the log and ip with out a return line at all. switching tanks would take for ever possibly but then there may be a way to switch leaving the log with just oil in it. our therory is that you cant have to much pressure if the suction line is hooked to the return line or i should say they are the same. it would draw up fuel or oil and with its suction push it through the ip pump back to the suction line from the tank and tee back in just before the IP again. we think it should not even bring more fule from the tank untill its used in the engine compartment? but then use a another pump like the stock one to siphon off the warmed and thinned oil just a couple feet or so to the IP? so one way you would run it through the ip to a heated log or tank. then from there to the sutction or tank line witha tee. Think of it as the system just circulating volume but since the line is open to the tank and vented there it cant build pressure just dilver massive volume. now all you have to do is pump 10 or so psi To the IP itself to run on and its almost a stock system? or if you ran it through the ip as well in the loop we may be able to eliminate the actaul fuel pump from the system and just use the steering pump. there would be no pressure at the pump? (need to verify this with a guage) but it would be flowing through the pump with out air. technically i think it would work. fro this point the pump takes the fuel and begins to comepress it. i dont beileve there is any reaso it acuatually needs to pressure just no air in the fuel which we would have. To keep the air out after shut downs will need to install a check valve on the line from tank to the engine compartment before this system so when its shut down its just being stopped from circualting and keeping the air out by not draining back to the tank. for diesel operation we may need to eletric control valves or maybe ajust another two way tank valve. mounted at the IP on both sides so that a diesel line can switch in and at the same time a return line can be switched in to the stock return line witch would only be used on diesel? I have to draw up the routing but i think you get the idea. I will design this into the truck as soon as the motor is back in it. I' will post this to my blog as well maybe it will help others, i have a good feeling about this new idea.
also for this update i have finally got the pistons made for the ford so its gone to the machine shop on friday be back in a couple weeks as a short block an di will do the heads in teh mean time. I am having a cam ground for it right now that is the same as a vw tdi and have just got one for my vw dasher as well that i am installing in the head with new valves monday so it can be a driver again i hope in a week. I am aslo building a hydrogen generator for the car and truck to make the fuel go even farther as well as get a better burn and be nicer to the eniviroment. Never hurts to pick up 50% in your mileage! This is really to small of a unit for a truck but it gives good tech info and shows you can build one in a weekend not to mention tons of stuff on you tube. http://mtpockets.net/watergas/page0.htmhttp://www.youtube.com/user/criwebbwww.watergas123.com check them all out its for real i have a freind Gordy he has a ranger that gets 20mpg now it gets over 35 for free. i'll post some video of his set up as soon as i can get time to stop over an shoot it.
sept 27 2008
the dasher is with in a few minutes of being ready to fire up. When i sent the IP out for rebuilding i left some brackets and throtttle piece on it. They just sent me a different pump back so now there getting me the parts i need. hope to have them on monday so i can get it fired up. gary is working on that end so it should nt be long now. the truck motor will be abck as a complete short block bored and balanced with the vw tdi cam grind next week or so. i still need to rebuild the heads for it and get the parts cleaned. so i have stuff to do very busy. but it is the weekend and i'm going out on the hover craft in afew hours with my nephews to play and thats way more fun than cleaning 300 miles of gunk off ford parts. So out of these two engines the only thinkg we did not rebuild or replace was the crank in the vw was not turned and looked great as well as the trubo looked good. the ofrd truck is getting two rebuilt turbos that are in my office with the new flanges and fitting dfor them. so we took to old beaters and updated them to trubo's and current valve train designs in both adjusted the compression upwards a smidge to help fire other fuels and am construction hydrogen generators for both. beow ais a video of my first test unit and it works very well and easy to build. the dasher will be first and the truck is getting a big one i just ordered the stainless still plates off ebay that will fit in a five gallon bucket and be 12 plates strong. i'm going to m ount it right on the front of the truck in trailer hitch reciever for cooling and ease of i am starting to hate adding hoses and then more hoses. but the beasts will be running very soon and i will posty video as soon as they do. i now have a camera that will film for almsot two hours and i drive 45 minutes to work through the mountains so you will be able to be right on board with me as shit happens very soon.
August 27 2009
Found a beast on craigs list for $800 85 benz i think turbo for sure. 300k miles and the paints coming off. A smart guy would spend as little as possible to make it work. I hoping to just not spend more that a new one costs. I'll start out blending compresson checks boost gauges oil pressure gauges temp system if i have to on the oil maybe a plate exchanger? I have a idea to build a fuel tank as big as will fit for maximum storage and blending. i also have afuel cell from the dasher build which i still have that i may add to the spare tire hole. Will see how it goes first things first how fast can i get to 100% wmo or as close as possble with no work. pictures and info coming in between finishing my hovercraft and the start of the formula vee turbo diesel i'm planning on driving for the first of spring if i can find the time to get it back together.
August 28th 2009
Well i picked up the beast tonight and just pumped in 50% wmo and drove it 100 miles and you couldnt tell. cruised all the way to full speed held cruise control there no visible smoke. could pick up on the power with no issues. will test the first morinng start with 50% oil in the morning. not plugged in. Looks like i have a bad alternator to deal with or it has a bad battery? i'll fix it this weekend. Found a 50 gallon tank that might fit in the stock tank hole with some mods to really add to the range and a buddy is supplying some air shocks if they'll fit to help carry the load. Basically no issues at all so its time to up the precentage i dont mind if it hard starts and needs starting fluid to be on 100% or close to it. remember this all about 100% all year with the least amount of mods.
September 1 2009
Well this weekend got to a chilly 55f and it was abit hard to start but i talked it into starting with out getting out of the car. Obviulsy i will have to add a deisel mixture to the wmo to make it start cold. so i filled it wmo and added abot 5 gallons i think it has a 20 gallon tank? so lets say starting in the morning i'll be on about a 25% mix and see how that goes. I want ot run 100 wmo oil all the time but there are simply times not to like when your in a drive through or stop and go traffic becuase of the stink it smells just like a car that is a big oil bunrer. its just not all that fun. so this is what i plan to do. take a pressure switch for a transmission for shifting solenoiids on older cars and hook it in the 1st and 2 gear and maybe reverse lines in the transmission body. then hook that to a switching fuel valve. probably a cheap ford style i have on the vw since we dont get the sytem hot they last a long time unlike the veggie guys cooking it. and also a by pass toggle switch for say when some one is behind me and i dont want o attract any attention with the smoke smell. I'll install the valve inches from the injector pupmp after the filter so when switching its a very fast switch of oils just to diesel. basically what ever the pump and injectors have and that all i figure under 10 seconds easy probably half that. so what i'm looking for is to be 100 wmo roll into traffic the transmission shifts down the valve switches and i'm basically idling our driving very slowly on diesel. keeping my smoke signature down and being a good nieghbor. then or say i am cruisnibg donw the highway and roll up to a fast food place by the tiome i get in the drive through i'll be on diesel again and being a good neighbor. for me if i dont auutmate it i''l forget and choke every one out of the drive through and look like a ass and its not what i'm after. say i go to the mall when i'm looking for a parking spot i'm clean and green!!!!!! the little extra fuel you burn will still get me i think about 200 mpg of actual diesel mpg. so thats not all that bad. so then after this i'll also be set up every time i go to start the car it will be on diesel and should have no starting or winter issues period. also you get to leave your neighbor hood when its cold andsmoke the most on diesel since your in the neighborhood in 2 gear or lower. at least for me. now i'll take a 16 plate heat exchnager and install it just between the valve and injector pump whch will add a few onces of oil to the swithcing but not enough to make much difference. my merceds has a tank in the trunk basically stock its over the rear axle and i belive not exposed to the outside. so what i plan to do is not heat the tank veggie style but to just keep it luke warm circulating it through the heat changer in the engine compartment but not changing any fuel ines or insulating anything. should help if its very cold in the winter so that i can get switched to 100% a bit quicker. if you live where its below freezing heat the tank its that simple. i'm skimping here becuase i just want to see how far i can go with the minunum amount of work. so i can let you in on it. i have run big blue in freezing weather so i know most of the drill with and with out heat with tanks out side the truck exposed to the cold air.
seems so simple should be done in weeks and weeks i'm guessing i hate building shit it never works the way you plan so be ready for dis appointments.
September 2 2009
Added the ten plate heat exchanger. came right out of the water nipple and into it then back out to the heater control valve. un believable how effecient those plate heat exchangers are! I'll have to take the time to see if the main tank is getting warm after a 1 hour drive or so. running good no issues yet. about 550 miles or so since i bought it last week. About $100 into adding fuel heater tonight.
Sept 6 2009
Still running the 25% diesel mixture and the first tank or fill up. not sure how big that tank is yet. i was assuming it was 21 or 23 gallons but its sure lasted a long time? i'll find out today or tomorrow i think as i must be gtting down to 1/4 or so. to stay consistand i will run teh car to the reserve line on the guage which must be about a 1/8th tank? from here i will add diesel and then wmo to the tank. the guage reads a bit slow when filling and the last fill up i actaully got mor oil than i wanted to start with. then when i got to the station to fill it up it was nearly reading full. I pulled out my spare tire fuel cell and a pollack fuel valve i have and will tryi and get that on in the coming week if i have time. also untll i get the switching system hooked up the way i want with the valve i will be adding additional diesle to the mixture to help control some of the smoke at stop lights and first start ups cold. after the valves are hooked up i'll run 100%wmo. The trick here is to get the egt's up high to keep the mixture burning cleaner. i suggest a turbo up grade for this engine unless i can increase the boost a bunch. i have guy i buy used turbos from i'll inquire about a blade change or a upgrade to a larger unit but what i'm actaully after is the trubo spooling up as high as possibbe as soon as possible. i'd like to see it idle with some boost helping to keep the mixture hot in the combustion chamber. so for this i'll have to get a boost guage on order with a egt guage. So just for you guys that live in 60f plus temps you can just run wmo with out any issues besides extra smoke and smell. Also the car as the truck did seems to have more power or smoother power at high boost levels at freeway speeds. just pulls with good power all the way to max rpm and speed which must be just over 110 mph or so it goes to 85 on the speed meter. of course i was on a wheel dyno testing becuase it would be wrong to drive that fast on the highway in this country. Aslo just a side not for parts i have bought about 10 bucks for a new set of bosch wipers. I did have to add two quarts fo oil to the engine but i'm not sure i ever checked it when i bought it. probably should change the oil? I have what fills like a cylinder miss at idle. i'm not going to mess with it untill i'm on a dual tank system and can check it on diesel. i'm interested in if its there when the diesel is switched to wmo and if thats true what the compression is in that hole. probably wont get that lucky but if we had a base line for low compression on wmo that would be very helpful for buying used cars to run this way. you could have it checked before you bought it and no if it would be a issue since these beasts all have 300k or more on them. for me i'll probably have a set of pistons made when i gets rebuilt at some popint and raise the compression up to make for easier starts on wmo and clean up the mixture a bit more. not to mention a few extra hp would be nice but its probably not much much 10hp or so would be alot for this i would think. since its a diesle i may just port the hell out of the head as well and make my own custom header style intake. i would really like to make a intercooler that uses the a/c to freeze the pipe like the water to air ones out there. will see the car is a big piece of shit so it may just be my test bed for a really nice one. So far i am saving about 10$ perday on fuel so thats exciting. be interested in others that are running the benze motor and what ratio you are at and about how offensive the small and smoke is. also i'm ready to do a truck again and i' going to go after a early dodge with the bosh pump that is similiar to the benz i'm told. I'd go with a ford but this timke i want more room in the engine compartment to do modifications. the ford was cramped and forced me to do designs i would have done differently. great tool to learn on and a huge beast to cram down the freeway loaded with no fuel bill. not many 4 dorr f350 out there witha 2500 mile range of free fuel on on them
September 11th 2009
installing the fuel valve and second tank tonight made the brackets for the vale and started in on the trunk and the console for the over ride switch. I can see many hours for this install. Here is the pollack fuel valve 6 port instructions if you need them. I was going to put the picture file here but i cant figure out how to. any how just call pollack directly nd give them your email its a very nice instruction sheet.
September 24th 2009
I've been busy. Havent got the second tank hooked up yet just driving around on different blends. its hard to tell what the blend is doing this time of year as when the seasons change the temps are all over the place and its makes the fluids act completly different from morning to night. I did install a 300 watt block heater on the oil pan but its not enough. i recommend one that goes in the water hose and at least twice this much heat. put it on a timer so it warms up in the am but doesnt run all night to keep the power bill down. i did install a roof rack I'll post some pictures for you mercedes guys its huge and works great. its a vw bus 10ft long by 4 foot rack i hose clamped to a yakima roof rack i bought on ebay. I'm lovin it right now. I went to lowes tonight bought rolls of pad and carpet tossed it right up there and through a strap on it. way easier and lower than the truck racks.
October 6th 2009
Have not done much but install a fresh set of plugs. Car is running 50% mix and no isues. temps are starting to be colder every morning. i haver not been using the block heater yet? will see how things go this week i kinda feel its time it changed a bit on starting and maybe warm up times. i'm very busy with other projects so as soon as i can get caught up i'll start installing the second fuel system and post those pictures.
Website email watercatwn6535nd@yahoo.com I post a lot of picts. Some I take, some I take from you. I always try to give every one credit. Try not to wine about it. But if it bothers you let me know. I'm just trying to have fun and promote my hobbies. More than likely it helps promote you!!
