Watch this kick ass video of me and Jeff rossi in his Uh and my explorer.(PLAY VIDEO) You just have to have one of these. Fuel economy like a car. Load carrying like a truck. Cruising like a helicopter. Dinner/fishing at the marina like a boat. Having a another boat follow you up on shore, PRICELESS!

Okay I'm not sure why but I just want a new drive train. Hovercraft never have enough power and I'm tired of hearing about how low power you can go with. I say heck with it and I'm going to treat it like a air boat.

lets make a list here of what i'm going to change to start with or at least is my plan and will see what i do in the end.

I already have a 383 chevy small block with:

Chevrolet Small Block – Carbureted

Street Dominator Intake Manifold

Part #: 300-36C

UPC #: 090127620762

Chevy V8 Marine Ready to Run Distributor

Part No. 83606

 

Features

• Only three wires to connect for a simple installation
• High output ignition module produces quick starts, smooth idle and improved mid range performance
• Accurate and maintenance-free magnetic pick-up never needs adjustment
• Easily adjust the mechanical advance with the supplied springs and stop bushings to fit your boat’s needs

.

Great hover craft photo at the langley hover in 2002

Shiny and brand new

Core-Cell

Core-Cell® is the leading structural foam core material, which has become widely accepted for the construction of large, high performance structures.

Single skin laminates, made from glass, carbon or other fibres, are strong and can bend without cracking, but are not always stiff, due to their relatively low thickness. A structural foam cored composite solution provides the stiffness that laminates need without unnecessary weight. Core-Cell product range provides increased levels of performance, strength, structural integrity and comfort, unmatched by any other core material. Suitable for a wide range of demanding structural applications (such as yachts and modern wind turbines) and different composite manufacturing processes, Core-Cell is fully compatible with polyester, vinylester, and epoxy resins, as well as all commonly used epoxy prepreg systems.

Core-Cell offers:

• Stiffness and strength
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• Excellent fatigue strength
• Sound and thermal insulation
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• Easy to cut, sand and shape

Core-Cell A Grade is a linear polymer foam that is non-friable, tough, rigid, and has a closed-cell structure. Core-Cell foams are used as structural sandwich core materials and provide low weight, excellent stiffness, and structural integrity under dynamic loads. Core-Cell foams have high shear elongation and impact strength. The insulation values are constant over time due to a controlled CFC-free foaming process. Core-Cell foams do not outgas. Core-Cell foams are compatible with polyester, vinylester, and epoxy resins.

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Core-Cell S: a rigid structural foam based on SAN (Styrene Acrylo-Nitrile) polymers. Developed primarily to resist hydrostatic pressures in sub-sea applications. Core-Cell S is manufactured in seven densities ranging from 100 to 400 kg/m3 (6 - 24 lbs/ft3) Buoyancy modules can therefore be designed to specific depths, ranging from approximately 60 to 1,300 meters (200 to 4,000 ft.). HCP is the Hydraulic Crush Point, defined in bar. It is the point where, at a pressure of 1-2 bar/second, the material has lost 5% of its volume.

Core-Cell T: a closed-cell, modified SAN (Styrene Acrylo-Nitrile) foam with excellent rigidity, thermal stability above ambient temperatures, and chemical resistance. Core-Cell T foams are used as structural sandwich core materials and provide low weight and excellent stiffness. The insulation values are constant over time due to a controlled CFC-free foam process. Core-Cell T foams are compatible with polyester, vinylester, and epoxy resins. For prepreg applications, process temperatures up to 100ºC -120ºC can be used.

C-MAT and Bead and Cove core are also available. Please contact our customer services for more information.

Technical Sheets

	CORE-CELL® A LINEAR STRUCTURAL FOAM Acrobat PDF File | Size: 28k | Click here to download
	CORE-CELL® P STRUCTURAL FOAM Acrobat PDF File | Size: 113k | Click here to download
	CORE-CELL® S RIGID STRUCTURAL FOAM Acrobat PDF File | Size: 21k | Click here to download
	CORE-CELL® T STRUCTURAL FOAM Acrobat PDF File | Size: 21k | Click here to download
To save the PDF to your computer, please right-click (PC) or control-click (Mac) the link on your mouse. Select the option to 'Save to...'

 This is the gm casting block info on my block.

14093638

1987-95

350

2/4

Roller or flat tappet cam one-piece rear seal

383CID STROKER KIT NEW 3.750" STROKER CRANKSHAFT HYPEREUTECTIC FLAT TOP PISTONS 58cc= 12.0-1, 64cc= 11.0-1, 76cc= 9.8-1 OR HYPEREUTECTIC DISH TOP PISTONS 58cc= 10.5-1, 64cc= 9.6-1, 76cc= 8.7-1   GM 5.700" STAGE 1 RODS WITH ARP WAVE LOC BOLTS CAST RING SET CLEVITE ROD AND MAIN BEARINGS

The new motor mount will be all stainless material, galvanized works fine but it limits you on additional welding and drilling at later dates with out having it re dipped.

I have located a two blade constant speed prop off a IO-540 that is 85" plus that I will be cutting down to fit if need be. The stock plans call for 84" prop so i'll be good there. I plan to have my thrust shaft drilled and set up so that it will flow engine oil down it like a aircraft engine crankshaft does so that the prop pitch can be adjusted. I hope that this will lead to a reversing prop? But just having it adjustable would be great. If neither of these options work out i will just bolt the prop or weld it at the correct pitch and make it fixed. I'm going for gold on this one so will see.

I'm mounting the engine with as many light weight parts as possible. Aluminum fly wheel and pulleys, intake manifold, and maybe heads if I can find a pair at the right price. In the installation to keep as much as i can off the ass end of the craft i will be not running anything off the front of the motor if teh front faces to the rear of the craft depending on what i use for a prop will tell me this. i plan to use a small subaru water pump off a 2.5 liter mounted as far forward of the engine i can run from the lift fan shafts.  As well as the alternator, power steering pump off a soob as well after i get the auto pilot installed instead of running the electric pump most of them have. At some point I need to get a top on the craft and at this point i'll be adding air conditioning which i took off a late model honda civic its very small and light weight but really puts out so i hope it will work well.

With the motor virtually having the thrust pulley on the rear and a hamonic balncer on the front I should be able to squeeze it all in wher my VW was! you say how can you do that! good question on my VW i have a transmission bellhousing and a shaft out of the clutch assembly that makes it very long. what ever extra space i need for the prop i will have to side the rudder out farther which will be very easy but will ch\ange the CG very fast.

Upfront i installed 3 battery boxs and have only been able to run 1 so with the extra weight in the reat i will just add back my stuff i took out. i still need a anchor motor and rope and chain not to mention anchor. Right off i can find all the weight i could ever need to set the cg up.

when the top goes on it i may either have a new fuel cell made that fits in or under the rear back seat where the current tank is. I like the idea of running two tanks on the out side of the craft at the c.g line like www.USHOVERCRAFT.com does. possible having all three tanks could really help me get to Alaska with less stops and with a bigger motor i could cover more ground per hour i hope. Of course at a higher fuel volume cost.

The craft carrys a ton of weight and i'm not out to kill the payload but what i have found and what i can afford are dictating my repower. i have a motor and its plenty of power and i could use a lighter motor and get the amount of power i neeed but i dont want to spend the money and buy another engine. With a big cubic inch motor and 400 hp i will virtually be idling it around so the motro should last forever. Here is why i'm doing this when you load the craft like the plans show it takes forever to take off. deep water take offs are a pain in the ass and you have to take off against the current with the wind. If you turn into the wind it knocks you right donw off hump and its a bitch!!!!!!! no i can cram in some power and fly it like plane right through bad weather with all my buddies and friends aboard. Thats what the next few thousands dollars are all about.

Febuary 1 2009

I have several hours into researching how to connect the crank to my two 8v belts. What I have chosen to use so far is a jet boat crank adapter that they use to get to a drive line adapter. On jet boats they go right off the crank and directly to a ujoint and then through a car drive shaft to teh jet boat. no need for a gear box becuase they have reverse on the jet pump.

So that adapter won't work for me but the design is sound and tested for the hp. It allows me to not have to buy or a make a expensive aluminum fly wheel. I now just install a automatic transmission flex plate and then the center hub adapter. From here is where I change up a bit. I am going to have an adapter hub made that bolts directly to the crank shaft over the flex plate. But on this hub i am going to have them add a 1.5" shaft that extends out far enoough to attach my 8v and a outer bearing to hold that load side.

Feb 15 2009

On the flywheel my research show that a aluminum fly wheel doesnt work unless you use a aluminum drive pulley. The pulley with this much power will not hold up to the standard way we bolt the pulley on. So welding it is the strongest route. be care ful when you buy pulleys they come in cast or steel. you want steel so it can welded to the steel plate. cast will not weld for you in the strenght area you need. Aslo i have decided to not hang a bearing off the end of the pto side of the pulley. some do some dont? i dont see anyone having any issues. it may be that the side load to lock up a 100hp just is not that much i'm hoping that it can lock up 300hp in belt tension? will see i guess. if i do end up with a issue i will only know it from a wiped out rear main bearing. But if it works this way in feild repairs will be possible and safer. the current belt change from having the rear bearing after the pulley is very difficult at best with help on land. not possible in the water. Now i can just loosen the belt and it will come right off with the pulley open to one side. potentially i can change a belt in minutes if i ever have to and for ever is a long time but its still coming.

so far on my prop set up I have found three props that will fit my hp two are for the 230hp models and the other may be for up to 750 shaft hp but thats just a guess. the bigger one is off a turbine prop and the other two are off 6 cylindr contentals i believe. the piston props are constant speed at least and the turbine is full feathering. if the pistons are on audal engnien plane then there full feathering but i do not know yet as i have not seen them in person. I plan on this in two weeks. What i need to find out about is if the props are feathering and i use the governor pump off the aircraft and belt drive it to my thrust shaft so it turns the same RPM as it would stock will this work? i dont see from what i have read that it would be able to tell its not on the stock craft? also i will be after finding out if i need the prop controls out of the plan or if i can use anoter type of pressure control to operate the blades from full picth to full beta. I'm kinda getting the idea i need to install a over rev control on the ignition system that is turned on by the controls moving towards the negative pitch area? maybe as simple as asmall microswitch at the hand control in the dash like a reverse switch or brake switch on a car. when the rev limitter s activated it kills the ignition down to a safe transition speed to reverse, i have no idea yet but i do see or read stuff on line about different ways they get there.

The goal will to be able to stay on cushion but to be able to use the beta in the prop as a brake while transitioning from high speed to a emergency stop of some sort with or with out the sevtec brake. also the main use will be for simply manuvering in tight areas, parking lots, boat ramps and of course water or wind current on rivers or marinas. There will be almost no steering in reverse i believe as the rudders will be on the wrong side of the prop. so at high speeds i hope it will be like shifting down in you car to slow and some rudder control. in low speed or stopped conditions i hope that i can find away to create a bit of steering? it may only oiffer the P factor or the props interia. it will be some thing to learn. also dropping the craft in the water should allow for some alterations of steering?

If the system was to work well enough on its own for braking and backng i will be thinking about removing the sevtec skirt brake and installing afull bag around the front as i would really like to be able to spin around and not get caught up on teh divder curtain. besides i like doing spins.

I just ordered a new oil pan for the engine and will be getting the valve covers and timing cover very soon. They all go in for galavanizing with arlins aparts. i'm using all galvanized brackets and tin as well as bolts on the mount and engine. the bolts require re tapping as the galvanizeed bolt is a bit altered becuase of the coating. its very durable suppose to last 50 years or more and its the cheapest way you can go on a chevy engine as its all standard nuts and bolts. i suspect i will save me sevaral hundred dollars on hard ware. my current galvinzed parts are now three years old and still look like the day i got them so it obiviulsy is a good product since we cant get painted parts to make three years with out holes in them.

Today i start clearing the garage for making a moch up of the rear of the craft for the motor mount. i will be building the enitire mount in the garage off the craft as long as i can get good measurements off the craft that make since to me. the mount is ver simple most of this will be in the prop feathering if i can get the parts i need.

The prop will require me to have the thrust shaft gun barrel drilled and aroto seal installed on the oppiste side of the propeller to feed oil from the governor thagt should be running on a belt off this shaft? it sucks up engine oil pumps the pressure up fairly high then regulates the pressure to the prop hub which holds it in place or moves it. the prop uses counterweights or air cylinders on the hub to give it resistance to the governors pressure. filled with nitrogen gas lkie a air shock on a off road car. the pressures i have read about have been in the 400 5000 psi are which is not all that high. a powersteering pump on your car can put out 1200psi. so i'll be looking into differnt ways of building the pressure and regulating it. ideally i would like to get rid of the aircraft parts for a cost savings and standard industrial parts will be easier to get.

I'm not sure the constant speed option will even help on a hovercraft since there is no climbing or descending. But a hyudralic tractor control handle on the dash hooked up to the bleed off side of the hub may allow me to use the volume instaed of the pressure to bleed off the amount of oil to have what ever pitch i wish for all run through my steering pump. i could install apressure relief valve on the line between the control and the hub for a maximum pressure. let it dump the extra pressure over what it is rated for around the control handle? this way i can just pull or push the control for what ever i have regualted the system to be for full picth or full beta and with a switch on the system as i get close to no pitch the igniton rev limiter can be activated to hold the rpm down while transitioning through the no load zone of the propeller. ????????????? thats my idea and plan so far.

Feb. 16 2009

I was at the machine shop today. Found some 1/2' and 3/8" plate aluminum today to make the motor mounts out of. Not sure that 1/2 is over kill or not. My guess is that 1/4" would do the trick as the mount is only stopping the engine from rotating around its axis. the forward motor mount struts will absorb the push from the force of the prop. So I will use what ever scrap peices to fabricate the mount taht will work using what ever is thickest to be on the safe side.

I found a set of LT1 corvette heads (aluminum 40lbs lighter) for the project today on ebay or about $225.00 including shipping. if there still there next week i will order them. i bought a racing custom made oil pan on ebay from a race shop. its raw steel so it will go in for galvanizing. I got the sand blaster at work set up today in the new shop so i can buy or find some stock valve covers and timing for blasting to go out for coating with the oil pan.

this weekend arlin and frank will be up to work on arlins craft. will get all the metal peices ready for galvanizing and the plan is to flip teh craft over unhook the inner skirt all the way around and glass in a layer or two on the bottom from side to side front to back. I scavenged up some 1/4 diamond plate from a construction project to use to cut out step plates for the prospector. any place that we climb around on or walk besides the insaide of the craft will get a aluminum plate to beef it up. www.USHOVERCRAFT.com does this and i think it makes it look sharp and has great function.

I'm hoping to make time to tear apart franks craft and get that rusty mount prepped repaired and off with arlins stuff to galvanize to but will have to work our asses off as it goes fast even with lots of help.